A large group of friends stands impatiently beside the rounded, sculptural plaster bar that welcomes diners into Heard. Soho, the newly unveiled second location of two-Michelin-star chef Jordan Bailey's acclaimed burger concept, when I arrive at its 31 Foubert's Pl site on the Monday evening after its opening.
It is a first impression that, together with the non-stop comings and goings that animate the two-story place throughout the night, bodes well for the restaurant's success, speaking for the popularity of its sibling establishment at 1 Flat Iron Square.
Inaugurated on September 25, Heard. Soho finds its home just off the ever-buzzy Carnaby Street, within meters from the candle-lit Parisian wine bar and restaurant Marjorie's and beloved ramen spot Kanada-Ya, and right opposite chef-restaurateur Esra Muslu's layeredly decorated Istanbulite eatery, Zahter.
If its busy location is enough to prompt people to compare Bailey's gourmet burger destination to the best restaurants in London, Heard. Soho's bold menu and curated wine — or beer — pairings, and its highly textural, immersive design will make the comparison inevitable.
Heard. Soho — Fast Food, Lingering Experience
Cornwall-born Bailey's love of cuisine brought him from the kitchen of Camborne's family-run Rosewarne Manor to the Michelin-starred Elephant Restaurant in Devon, Nottingham's Sat Bains, and Maaemo in the Norwegian capital of Oslo, where he quickly rose to the position of Head Chef.
With an award-winning career unfolding inside some of the world's most coveted dining rooms, the launch of his Heard Burger venture last March might have well taken some by surprise.
Still, "just because it's fast food, it doesn't mean it should be junk," reads the description of his present job role on LinkedIn. With a produce-driven approach to patty-filled buns, and "ethical supply chains" ensuring only the finest ingredients land on the eatery's tables from regenerative British farms, the young chef seems determined to revolutionize this traditionally downplayed portion of the gastronomy scene one (caviar-topped?!) burger at a time.
That Heard. Soho serves up some of the best burgers in London isn't the only thing I learn while dining there: instead, it is simultaneously helping reshape the public perception of what fast food restaurant design looks like today.
One More Ingredient: Futuristic Decor
From the get-go, and even before I step inside, what catches my eye at the eatery is the light. Whether through its abstract, burger-reminiscent neon sign, hanging both outside and near the corner seat on the ground floor, or the softly glowing, back-lit ceilings and countertops, Heard. Soho proves that fast food, too, can benefit from ingeniously curated interiors.
Much like in the case of matcha-inspired cafes, the second outpost of Bailey's high-end burger joint takes its ultimate inspiration — nature — to the fore through vegetal green surfaces and walls, soft-to-the-touch wooden cabinetry and furniture, terracotta tiled floors, and tactile leathery notes.
Whether on the first floor or in the even more atmospheric downstairs, winding lines, diffused lighting, and matte chrome fixtures all play a role in making Heard. Soho feel distinctively science fiction-like.
But the restaurant's aesthetic isn't the only thing to transport diners to a captivating future: so do its unexpected ingredient juxtapositions and burger-drink combinations.
With a Few, Bold Flavors, Less Is More
There is only so much you can expect from a menu composed of smash patty burgers, fries and salad sides, and ice cream sandwiches for dessert, but even then, Bailey's flavor-packed approach to dining doesn't fail to land.
Heard. Soho's newly introduced signature bun, The Soho is stuffed with the only thick patty available on the food list, Gruyère, cornichon and tarragon-spiced mayo, shoestring fries, and watercress, and served with pink peppercorn and caramelized onion dipping sauce. It feels pleasantly sweet-and-sour, even to a savory-first palate like mine, its beef burger and the glazing condiments all nicely melting into one at every bite. The skin-on fries are so good, it's a shame they are gone before you realize, while the baby gem leaves we order as the only green touch to our meal come sprinkled in herbs with a Chardonnay vinegar and extra virgin olive oil dressing worth stealing the recipe of.
The wine Bailey recommends to try with The Soho, a 2022 Willunga 100 Grenache from McLaren Vale, Australia, cuts through the fattiness of the meat with refreshing red fruit notes of cherry, raspberry, and plum, making for an easily drinkable, 'glou-glou' pairing.
All in all, eating at Heard. Soho reminded me that there should be no guilt in indulging in a Monday evening, fast-food meal, especially when some of the UK's freshest ingredients are beautifully layered inside of it. Plus, when everything misses, its space-y design will be enough for you to escape reality — even if just till you are done with your dish.
