I was never someone who struggled with acne growing up, but throughout my late twenties, my skin has been waging a war against breakouts. “Adult acne is rarely random,” Dr Aliaa Ahmed, aesthetic doctor at Harley Street Dermal, says. “Lifestyle factors like lack of sleep, overuse of harsh actives, frequent product switching, and even gut health can all contribute,” she adds
The science behind adult acne is the same as teenage acne – think clogged pores from excess oil, dead skin and hormonal changes that increase sebum productions. “In your 20s and 30s, flare-ups are often driven by hormonal shifts, particularly around the menstrual cycle, pregnancy or coming off contraception.” Stress and cortisol play a huge role too, Dr Ahmed explains, as they increase oil production and inflammation. “We also see a lot of acne triggered by barrier damage from over-exfoliation or aggressive at-home devices.”
For adults, the location of spots trends to be around the lower face, jawline and neck, and they can appear more inflammatory. I have sensitive skin, so spots more often than not leave long-lasting marks and hyperpigmentation. Some of my blemishes have taken weeks to fade and others have left temporary scaring in their wake.
“Acne scarring needs a two-pronged approach: prevention and correction,” Dr Ahmed advices. “Treating active acne properly is key to avoiding new scars – for existing marks, retinoids, vitamin C and SPF help fade pigmentation, while in-clinic treatments like microneedling, radiofrequency, laser resurfacing or polynucleotides can significantly improve texture and collagen over time.” While it might take time, scarring can be tackled with the right approach.
“It’s also essential to control active acne first and wear daily SPF, as sun exposure can significantly worsen the appearance of pigmentation marks from acne,” Holly Mason, acne and skin health expert and founder of The Skin Investment Clinic, tells me.
Read more: Best face moisturisers with SPF that make daily sun protection simple
As a beauty writer, I find myself testing a lot of different products, so it’s hard to stick to a consistent regime. But in a bid to banish my blemishes going into the new year, I went to a dermatologist for help. Of course, cutting out booze, cheese, sugar and drinking tonnes of water are day-to-day changes that can make a big difference – but, like many of us, I wasn’t willing to compromise my lifestyle.
With dermatologist Dr Nora’s advice, I overhauled my usual skincare regime of hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and peptides to introduce three new hardworking ingredients. In just over a week, I’m seeing a difference – even during Christmas party season. If you’re dealing with adult acne and blemish prone skin, these are the key actives you too should be implementing into your skincare routine – plus advice from expert dermatologists.
Retinal & retinol
“When it comes to acne, it’s less about throwing everything at your skin and more about choosing a few proven actives and using them consistently says Ahmed. “A vitamin A derivative like retinal (or retinol if you’re more sensitive) is one of the gold standards – it helps regulate cell turnover, reduce congestion and improve post-acne marks over time.”
Medik8 crystal retinal 3 serum, 30ml
I incorporated Medik8’s crystal retinal into my nighttime routine just over a week ago, following a flare up of blemishes around my jawline and cheeks. Gentler than retinol, the formula is ideal for my sensitive skin. In just a few days, it’s helped to clear up my texture, appearance of pores and reduce oil sebum. No new blemishes have appeared and my skin looks clearer, thanks to the retinal boosting cell turnover.
Buy now £49, Medik8.com
CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum
A budget skincare buy that seriously impressed beauty expert Lauren Cunningham, CeraVe’s retinol resurfacing serum is perfect for beginners. “The serum has been formulated to reduce all possible side effects while still fading dark spots, post-acne blemishes and the appearance of large pores,” she said in her CeraVe retinol serum review. Adding that she loved the results, she noted that she could “really notice a difference in the fading of light marks”.
Buy now £17.99, Boots.com
Salicylic acid
“Salicylic acid is particularly effective for acne-prone skin as it’s oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores to clear congestion and reduce breakouts,” says Mason. “That said, actives should be introduced carefully and balanced with barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides and niacinamide to avoid irritation, which can worsen acne,” she advices.
CeraVe SA smoothing cleanser with salicylic acid
CeraVe’s SA smoothing cleanser is a bestseller for good reason. Formulated with salicylic acid, the cleanser helps penetrate and unclog pores, exfoliate dead skin cells, reduce breakouts and smooth rough texture. I’ve seen all the benefits above, with the gentle and non-stripping formula leaving my skin soft and supple rather than dried out like some acid-formulated cleansers.
Buy now £10.87, Boots.com
The Ordinary salicylic acid solution
Costing just £6, The Ordinary’s salicylic acid solution is an efficacious addition to your skincare routine. Beauty expert Ava Welsing-Kitcher said in her review of The Ordinary salicylic acid: “For me, this has never failed over the years as a foolproof, straightforward spot treatment. It stops open whiteheads from continuing to produce pus overnight, drying them up without causing irritation or scarring after healing.”
Buy now £6.1, Theordinary.com
Glycolic acid
“For texture and dullness, glycolic acid can be helpful, but it’s best used carefully and not every day, especially if you’re already using vitamin A,” Dr Ahmed advices.
The Inkey List glycolic acid toner
The Inkey List is one of the best names in budget skincare. Working to target blemishes by gently exfoliating dead skin and reducing oil production, this glycolic acid toner also help to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation from old spots – tick, tick, tick. I’ve used it twice over the last week and I’m starting to reap the rewards.
Buy now £13, Cultbeauty.co.uk
Discover more of the best spot treatments, tried and tested by a beauty writer
