Inspired by Raymond Blanc’s pea risotto from his 2015 book Kew on a Plate, today’s dish is Blanc at his best, demonstrating his skill and thrift at the highest level. I’ve simplified the original by making it entirely from pea pods and parmesan rind, not least to show just how much flavour and colour they hold.
Pea pod risotto
Flavourful pea pods are blanched, then shocked in iced water to stop them cooking further and so preserve their chlorophyll (to save on ice to make the iced water, simply put a bowl of water in the freezer for an hour). They are then blended into a vivid, emerald-green puree.
Both pea pods and parmesan rinds are naturally rich in glutamates, which provide the deep umami flavours that make this risotto so satisfying and complex despite using what would typically be discarded. Use a jug blender, if you have one, but a Vitamix, Thermomix or a Nutribullet-style blender will also work brilliantly to create a very fine puree. In fact, you may not even need to pass the puree through a sieve, though it’s still important to check for any fibres and sieve if need be.
Most risotto recipes call for the rice to be stirred frequently to create a creamy consistency. Here, however, I’ve adopted Blanc’s efficient method by just leaving it to tick over on a very low heat before stirring vigorously at the end to break down the starch and create that creamy consistency we know and love.
Serves 4
350g empty pea pods, ideally organic (save the peas for another recipe)
100g parsley stalks, or spinach
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 small white onion, peeled and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled
200g risotto rice (carnaroli or arborio)
125ml white wine, or 1 tbsp white-wine vinegar
40g parmesan rind
Juice and finely grated zest of 1/4 organic unwaxed lemon
25g butter
20g parmesan shavings, to serve
Sea salt and black pepper
Blanch the pea pods and parsley stalks in a large pan of boiling water for just a minute, until they turn a vivid green. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl filled with 350ml iced water and stir so the greens cool rapidly. Blend in a high-speed blender for a minute, until very smooth, then pass through a sieve if need be.
Put the oil in a saucepan set over a low-medium heat, then add the diced onion and saute, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Add the whole garlic clove and rice, and cook, stirring, for two minutes, until the rice turns translucent. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil so it reduces. Stir in the parmesan rind and 500ml of the pureed pea pod liquid, bring up to a very gentle simmer, then turn down the heat to very low and cover with a lid. Leave to simmer gently for 20 minutes, checking every now and then to make sure the risotto isn’t boiling.
Take off the heat, stir vigorously for five minutes to help break down the starch and create a creamy consistency, then stir in another 200ml of the pureed pea pod liquid, the lemon zest and juice and the butter, and season to taste.
Serve in shallow bowls topped with parmesan shavings and a drizzle of olive oil.
