Not long ago I was at a bean conference (it was called BeanCon) in Mexico, where I picked up some tips for cooking better beans (that I’ll share in due course) plus some other useful bits and bobs over my travels: a traditional Talavera platter, some granite dominoes, a colour-changing T-shirt emblazoned with an axolotl and confirmation that fish tacos are always a sure bet.
There I was, in a Cancún taqueria, with two friends from opposite ends of the earth, perusing a menu of prolific taco fillings (nopales, huitlacoche) when the best-travelled among us suggested we go all in on fish. The other friend and I initially resisted but he was right. We ordered six more, and it remained my go-to order for the rest of the trip. When in doubt, taco de pescado!
There were subtle differences between each taqueria but the basic principles of taco de pescado remained: a corn or flour tortilla, firm-fleshed white fish (battered, crumbed or grilled) tangy salsa and a creamy mole.
Closer to home, you too can join the fish taco fanclub, and most of what you need can be found in the freezer aisle and your pantry.
Fishfinger tacos with Kewpie coating and frozen pea guac – recipe
I’ve chosen to make the fishfingers from scratch. Don’t laugh – it really is easy, even for a midweeker. I’ve used fresh flathead tails, sliced into three even pieces; the meatier half of the fillet naturally portions into two “fingers” and the skinnier half becomes your third “finger”.
Flathead is perfect fishfinger fodder because its flesh is firm yet flaky and its flavour sweet and mild. Our stylist, Kat, was so inspired that she stopped in at the shops after the photoshoot and snapped up some frozen fishfingers to recreate the dish for her family. She bunged them in the oven for 15 minutes or so while making up the rest of the components, which you’re also more than welcome to do. (You can use the Good Fish Sustainable Seafood Guide or Marine Stewardship Council blue fish tick label to help guide your frozen fish choices.)
The fishfinger coating is a time-saver and a mind-blower too, because you’re making the dipping sauce and a flavoursome crumb-binder at the same time. It should take you 20 minutes from fillet to finger – only a few minutes longer than frozen in the oven! For effective crumbing, you want to put dry on wet (flour on fish), wet on dry (coating on flour), then dry on wet (panko on coating). This will help the fish stick.
Kewpie is a Japanese mayonnaise brand that makes a lovely fish-friendly condiment – just mix in a little garlic powder to taste (I like the Simply Organic brand, which you can find at most health food shops). And now you’re already halfway to the coating too! Because Kewpie is made with egg yolks, it has a much richer flavour and density than whole-egg mayos. By loosening the remaining mix with water, you get a fine, creamy coating to bind to the crunchy panko crumb, without cracking a single egg – or a sweat.
In Mexico, it took all my willpower not to lug home a molcajete (similar to a mortar and pestle), the traditional tool for making guacamole. A blender is unconventional but far more midweek friendly, and means there’s less chopping too. Whizzing frozen peas – also unconventional – into the guac means an extra serve of veg, and a super-vibrant green colour. It also takes advantage of the icy particles in the still-frozen peas to whip the mix to a fluffier consistency – as Ottolenghi Test Kitchen alumnus Noor Murad does for hummus and the Greek Aussie chef Helena Moursellas does for tarama.
These days you can buy frozen avocado slices, which can absolutely be used in this mole if fresh avocados are unavailable. But, while I have you, avocados are now great bang for buck so it’s worth snapping up extra while they’re abundant, scooping out the flesh while still firm but ripe, then freezing flat on a tray and portioning for later on. (Perhaps the one time that investing in avocados will pay dividends.)
If you happen to have frozen corn kernels handy too, feel free to use for added veg. Pour boiling water over a cupful to generously cover, then leave to thaw while you prepare the rest of the elements before tossing through the tomato salsa for an extra pop of sunshine. I draw the line at bottled lime juice, however. If you can’t find fresh limes, or if they’re too expensive, sub in lemon juice and an extra pinch of salt (lime is brinier than lemon).
I’ve used medium-sized flour tortillas but, for a gluten-free option, go for soft corn tortillas instead. They’re best heated gently on a skillet or, even easier, in the oven. If you don’t have a tortillero (a tortilla warmer), keep them warm at the table wrapped in foil and a tea towel. Any leftover tortillas can be sealed in the packet and popped in the fridge for up to a month, or divide into household-sized portions and wrap tightly, then freeze for up to six months.
Serves 4
For the fishfingers
6-8 flathead fillets (approx 800g)
150g plain flour (1 cup)
100g panko crumbs (2 cups)
75ml neutral oil for frying (⅓ cup) – I like grapeseed or rice bran
Salt flakes, for sprinkling
For the tomato salsa
250g cherry tomatoes, quartered
¼ red onion, finely diced
1 lime, zest and juice
¼ tsp salt flakes
Good crack of pepper
A pinch of sugar
For the very green guacamole
120g frozen peas (1 cup)
¼ red onion, roughly chopped
50g fresh coriander stems, roughly chopped (½ bunch), tendrils reserved for garnish
1 lime, zest and juice
1 tsp salt flakes
¼ tsp cracked pepper
1 ripe avocado (something soft and creamy like a hass)
For the Kewpie coating/shmear
300g Kewpie mayonnaise (1 cup)
1 tsp garlic powder
Final bits and bobs
12-16 flour tortillas (depending on your household’s appetites!)
Lime and coriander tendrils, to finish
Remove the fish from the fridge and place on the kitchen bench to take off the fridge chill.
To make the tomato salsa, place the ingredients into a bowl and combine well. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, pepper and sugar as needed. Set aside to allow the flavours to get friendly.
To make the guacamole, using a blender or stick blender and jug, combine all the ingredients except the avocado, and pulse to break up the ingredients. Add the avocado and blitz to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Place in a bowl, cover to prevent discoloration and set aside.
Place the tortillas in a single stack, wrap in foil and place in the oven, setting the temperature to a balmy 140C/120C fan. Heat the tortillas for 15 minutes and then switch off the oven – they will steam and stay warm in the residual heat.
While the tortillas are warming, make the fishfingers. Slice each flathead fillet into three “fingers”. Follow the grain of the fillet – the meatier half of the fillet can be sliced into two fingers and the skinnier half makes the third finger.
To make the Kewpie coating, in a wide, shallow bowl, combine the mayonnaise and garlic powder. Set aside about four tablespoons to serve with the tacos later. In the bowl, stir through two tablespoons of water to loosen the remaining Kewpie mixture – this will make it easier to coat your fish.
Find two more wide, shallow bowls. Place the flour in one bowl and the panko in another. Line up the bowls of flour, Kewpie coating and panko crumb, plus a large plate lined with paper towel, near the stove.
Heat a large heavy-bottomed pan over a medium heat. Heat the oil – it’s hot enough when a panko crumb browns within 20 seconds. Gently coat a fishfinger in the flour, then Kewpie coating, then panko crumb, then place into the hot oil; and repeat with two or three more fingers, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Depending on the thickness of the fish, they’ll take two to three minutes each side. If the crumb is browning too quickly, turn down the heat a smidgen. Place the cooked fish on the paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with salt flakes. Repeat with the remaining fishfingers.
Remove the tortillas from the oven and wrap with a clean tea towel to keep warm.
When ready to serve, pop the fishfingers, guacamole, tomato salsa, coriander tendrils and tortillas on the table and encourage everyone to pick and choose their own taco adventure.
