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Axios
Axios

A love letter to L'Opossum: Richmond dining at its best

Five stars for Richmond chef David Shannon.

Why: What he's built with his Oregon Hill restaurant L'Opossum is so beautiful that I haven't stopped talking about it since finally dining there over a month ago.


The big picture: Shannon opened his modern French-inspired spot over a decade ago, but I only got to go recently this year.

  • I fell in love the second I walked in, with its replica of Michelangelo's "David," phallic-shaped stained glass window, and Star Wars collectable plates.
  • "Blue Velvet" by Bobby Hinton was playing, and despite being known for its fine dining, L'Opossum felt so … Richmond.
  • The staff, many of whom are fully tatted, represented the best parts of Southern hospitality.
  • It also has a cocktail that comes wearing a mini jockstrap.
The jockstrap in all its glory. Photo: Sabrina Moreno/Axios

Zoom in: I still dream of the escargot on a ham biscuit and the Fabergé egg, a dish inspired by the VMFA's collection of them that comes with caviar, salmon, lobster and a jiggly rosé gelatin.

  • And don't get me started on the braised pork shank with the raspberry mostarda.
  • Then there's Le Petit Mort, a rich chocolatey dessert that's set on fire and served with a black cherry sauce. I didn't open my eyes once while eating it. It was simply too good.
This girl (cake) is on fireeee. Video: Sabrina Moreno/Axios

The bottom line: Take this as your sign to go to your bucket list Richmond restaurant instead of waiting years like I did.

  • I'm not saying it's not expensive, I'm just saying it's so worth it.

If you go: L'Opossum is at 626 China Street, Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9:30pm.

Pro tip: While usually booked for weekends, week day reservations regularly pop up — sometimes even day of.

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