Five stars for Richmond chef David Shannon.
Why: What he's built with his Oregon Hill restaurant L'Opossum is so beautiful that I haven't stopped talking about it since finally dining there over a month ago.
The big picture: Shannon opened his modern French-inspired spot over a decade ago, but I only got to go recently this year.
- I fell in love the second I walked in, with its replica of Michelangelo's "David," phallic-shaped stained glass window, and Star Wars collectable plates.
- "Blue Velvet" by Bobby Hinton was playing, and despite being known for its fine dining, L'Opossum felt so … Richmond.
- The staff, many of whom are fully tatted, represented the best parts of Southern hospitality.
- It also has a cocktail that comes wearing a mini jockstrap.
Zoom in: I still dream of the escargot on a ham biscuit and the Fabergé egg, a dish inspired by the VMFA's collection of them that comes with caviar, salmon, lobster and a jiggly rosé gelatin.
- And don't get me started on the braised pork shank with the raspberry mostarda.
- Then there's Le Petit Mort, a rich chocolatey dessert that's set on fire and served with a black cherry sauce. I didn't open my eyes once while eating it. It was simply too good.
The bottom line: Take this as your sign to go to your bucket list Richmond restaurant instead of waiting years like I did.
- I'm not saying it's not expensive, I'm just saying it's so worth it.
If you go: L'Opossum is at 626 China Street, Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9:30pm.
Pro tip: While usually booked for weekends, week day reservations regularly pop up — sometimes even day of.