There is a very particular moment, somewhere between the first asparagus spears and the sudden reappearance of herbs that actually taste of something, when cooking begins to feel lighter again. Not in the joyless, January sense of restraint, but in the way a plate can be both fresh and deeply satisfying – lemon sharpened, greens piled high, butter used with intent rather than apology.
This is that moment, and these are the recipes for it.
Here, pasta does most of the heavy lifting, as it should. Orecchiette is tossed with prawns, courgettes and a muddle of mint and basil – quick, bright, and exactly the sort of thing you want to eat on a Tuesday when the sun is still pretending it might stick around. Trofie, meanwhile, is slicked with wild garlic pesto and studded with roasted potatoes and purple sprouting broccoli, a dish that feels quietly impressive without trying too hard.
Elsewhere, things lean more pointedly seasonal. Asparagus arrives properly dressed, courtesy of Paul Ainsworth, with a saline hit of seaweed butter and a chopped egg salad that turns a simple bunch of spears into something approaching a centrepiece. And because spring in Britain is never just about greens, there are carrot-spiked hot cross buns too – soft, spiced and unapologetically generous with their cream cheese butter.
Taken together, it’s a collection that understands the brief: cooking that looks forward, not back – lighter, brighter, and just indulgent enough to feel like the season has finally turned.
Herby orecchiette with prawns
A midweek hero, this simple herby orecchiette with prawns from Lauren Hoffman is full of zippy, fresh flavours. Make it veggie by using a vegetarian Italian hard cheese and swapping the prawns for baby mozzarella or burrata.
Serves: 4
Prep time: 5 minutes | Cook time: 15 minutes
Ingredients:
300g orecchiette
150g frozen broad bean, edamame and pea mix (available from M&S via Ocado)
2 tbsp olive oil
2 courgettes, sliced into half-moons
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
½ lemon, juiced
20g parmesan, finely grated
½ (175g) pack cooked peeled prawns
1 small handful basil, leaves picked and shredded
1 small handful mint, leaves picked and shredded
Method:
1. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water to pack instructions, adding the bean mix for the final 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in large pan. Add the courgettes and fry over medium-high heat for 5 mins until starting to soften and colour. Stir in the garlic and cook for a few mins more. Partially cover and cook for 5 mins until tender. Add the lemon juice; season to taste.
3. Drain the pasta and beans, reserving a little water. Tip back into the pan; stir through the courgettes. Toss in the parmesan with 1 tbsp pasta water; fold through the prawns and most of the herbs.
4. Serve topped with the reserved herbs and a crack of black pepper.
Trofie with wild garlic pesto and purple sprouting broccoli
Lauren Hoffman’s trofie with wild garlic pesto and purple sprouting broccoli is a vibrant twist on a Ligurian classic. Quick enough for a weeknight but impressive enough that people might think you planned it. Don’t worry if wild garlic isn’t in season – a bunch of basil and a clove of garlic will do the job. The charm is in the sauce, so use any pasta you like.
Serves: 4
Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
200g baby potatoes, cut into 5mm slices
1 tbsp olive oil
2 pinches sea salt
100g blanched hazelnuts
1 (75g) bunch wild garlic, or use 75g basil and 1 garlic clove
30g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve (optional)
½ lemon, juiced
1 (250g) pack fresh trofie or other pasta
200g purple sprouting broccoli, cut into small florets, stalks sliced
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Toss the potato slices in 1 tbsp olive oil and spread out in a single layer on a baking tray. Season with a pinch of sea salt; roast for 15 minutes or until golden, tossing halfway.
2. Meanwhile, blitz the hazelnuts, wild garlic (or basil and garlic), parmesan, extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice in a food processor until combined and smooth – add more oil or cold water to loosen, if needed. Season with sea salt and black pepper.
3. Cook the pasta as per pack instructions until al dente, adding the broccoli for the final 3 mins. Drain and return to the pan. Stir in 2-3 heaped tbsp pesto to coat, then fold through the potatoes. Serve in bowls with a grind of black pepper and extra parmesan, if liked. Leftover pesto will keep chilled in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or freeze in portions for 3 months.
Asparagus with seaweed butter and chopped egg salad
This vibrant asparagus with seaweed butter and chopped egg salad was created by Paul Ainsworth, chef-patron of Michelin-starred Padstow restaurant Paul Ainsworth at No 6, and author of For The Love Of Food. “This is a really versatile dish that works as a starter, a light main or a side to a family barbecue or main course. The seaweed (also known as sea veg) brings a silky, savoury note that dials up the natural sweetness of the asparagus.”
Serves: 6
Prep time: 15 minutes | Cook time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
6 medium eggs, 4 hard-boiled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp plain flour
4 tsp caster sugar
1 tbsp English mustard powder
1 pinch sea salt
150ml double cream
100ml white wine vinegar
½ lemon (approx), squeezed, to taste
3 tbsp (approx) Clearspring Japanese Sea Vegetable Salad
1 tsp chopped chives
2 salad onions, thinly sliced
100g unsalted butter
2 bunches asparagus, woody ends trimmed
10 (approx) edible flowers (optional)
Method:
1. To make the salad cream, crack the 2 uncooked eggs into a heatproof bowl and use a balloon whisk to mix in the flour, sugar, mustard powder, sea salt, cream and vinegar. Place over a saucepan of shallow, simmering water, whisking continuously for 5 mins until thick and creamy. Remove from the heat; season to taste with salt and lemon juice. Pass through a fine sieve, then chill until needed.
2. Soak the dried sea veg in 200ml warm water for 5 mins to rehydrate. Strain, reserving the soaking liquid; roughly chop.
3. In a bowl, combine the chopped eggs with 1 tsp each chopped sea veg and chives, the salad onions and 120g of the salad cream; mix well. Season to taste; set aside.
4. Put the reserved soaking liquid in a large saucepan with the butter; bring to a simmer to form a buttery stock. Add the asparagus and cook in the stock for 2 mins or until just tender; season.
5. Meanwhile, heat a griddle pan over high heat. Remove the asparagus with a slotted spoon and char for 30 secs on each side, then remove to a serving plate.
6. Add the remaining chopped sea veg to the buttery stock; whisk over a medium heat for 1 min max, until thickened. Spoon the stock over the asparagus and garnish with violas (if using). Serve with the chopped egg salad on the side. Chill leftover salad cream in an airtight container for 1 week.
Carrot hot cross buns
Made with grated carrots, cinnamon and ginger, these carrot hot cross buns are the brainchild of Crystelle Pereira – cook, Bake Off finalist and author of Flavour Kitchen. “Love carrot cake? And hot cross buns? Then this is the recipe for you! I borrow a technique from Japanese milk bread by making a starter (step 1) to get the buns extra soft and springy. Best served with a generous sweep of sweet cream cheese butter – for Easter and beyond.”
Makes: 16
Prep time: 25 minutes | Cook time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
400ml whole milk (60ml cold, 340ml warmed and separated)
640g strong bread flour
80g caster sugar
3½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
1 (7g) sachet yeast
1 tsp salt
1 large egg
190g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the proving bowl
160g carrots, grated
200g raisins
2 oranges, zested
75g plain flour
4 tbsp maple syrup
110g cream cheese
2 tsp vanilla bean paste
Method:
1. Combine the 60ml cold milk with 20g of the strong bread flour in a pan; whisk until smooth. Place over a medium-low heat and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened and leaving tracks on the bottom of the pan. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool.
2. Using a food processor or stand mixer with a dough hook, briefly mix the remaining 620g bread flour, the sugar, cinnamon, ginger, yeast and salt until combined (or see the tip to make the dough by hand). Add the egg, warm milk and flour-and-milk mixture you made earlier; mix on a low speed for 5 mins.
3. Gradually add 80g of the softened butter in stages, mixing for 10-12 mins until the dough is smooth and elastic. Firmly squeeze the excess water from the carrots and add to the dough along with the raisins and orange zest; mix until fully incorporated.
4. Shape the dough into a ball and place in a large, greased bowl. Cover with a damp tea towel and leave in a warm place for 60-90 mins or until doubled in size.
5. Punch down the dough and divide it into 12 equal portions (around 135g each). Roll into tight balls and arrange them evenly on a lined baking tray in 3 rows of 4 buns. Cover loosely and leave to prove for 30-45 mins, until the buns have grown and are touching.
6. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Mix the plain flour with 55ml water to make a thick paste. Transfer to a piping bag, snip the tip to form a small hole and pipe crosses over the buns – vertical lines down each row, followed by horizontal lines across the rows.
7. Bake the buns for 25 mins, rotating the tray halfway through, until golden and springy. Once baked, brush with 2 tbsp of the maple syrup and leave to cool slightly.
8. To make the cream cheese butter, beat the remaining 110g softened butter until smooth. Add the cream cheese, remaining 2 tbsp maple syrup and vanilla, and beat until fully combined.
9. To serve, cut the warm buns in half, spread generously with the cream cheese butter and tuck in – or you can toast them, if you prefer. The buns will keep in a sealed container for 3-4 days.
10. Recipe tip: Allow 1½-2 hrs 15 mins proving time. To make the dough by hand, mix the ingredients in step 2 in a bowl with a wooden spoon until sticky. Turn out onto a clean, floured worksurface and knead the dough until you can see through it when stretched but it doesn’t break – the “windowpane effect”. Work in the butter (in small pieces), raisins, orange zest and carrots until evenly dispersed. Continue from step 5.
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