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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Phoebe Smith

Winter magic in Wales: five must-try holiday adventures

Cwm Idwal is a cirque (or corrie) in the Glyderau range of mountains in northern Snowdonia, the national park in the mountainous region of North Wales.
Visit Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia for captivating frozen waterfalls. Photograph: korhil65/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Just because the nights are drawing in, it doesn’t mean that we have to hibernate. From crisp, snowy hikes and cycling on traffic-free routes to relaxing in your own luxurious hideaway glamping pod, here are five ideas for inspiring Welsh adventures that’ll make your winter.

The sky’s the limit
If your eyes could use a well-earned break, there’s no better antidote to the blue light emitted from electronic devices than gazing up at the night sky and watching the stars emerge from the darkness. And in winter, earlier sunsets mean that you don’t have to be a night owl to enjoy constellations. The best viewings are had in places far from light pollution – locations that Wales has in abundance. The mountains and valleys of Snowdonia national park are recognised as an international dark sky reserve (one of only 20 in the world) for expansive stargazing opportunities, so you can round off a day visiting the hills by witnessing a spectacular night sky. The Isle of Anglesey (Ynys Môn) is home to Penmon Point, a spot great for both wildlife and celestial wonders. The Elan valley, in mid-Wales, is a recognised international dark sky park, meaning its entire 18,200 hectares (45,000 acres) are protected from light pollution. Just over an hour’s drive from Swansea (an hour and a half from Cardiff), the Usk reservoir in the Brecon Beacons is a dark sky discovery site and open late, allowing you to go for a sunset picnic and stay for a natural light show.

The Neowise Comet and starry sky over Penmon Point Lighthouse in Wales
Stargazers should head to Penmon Point on Anglesey for its stunning dark skies. Photograph: Pete Rowbottom/Getty Images

Walk on the wild side
There’s no need to hang up your hiking boots with the onset of winter. Dropping temperatures mean boggy fields become frosted wonderlands, sunrises can be enjoyed even after a lie-in, and sunsets witnessed even on shorter strolls. Winter walks don’t come much more bracing than along the coast, and many hotspots are easily accessible from Wales’ major cities. Rhossili Bay on the Gower peninsula, with three miles of golden sands, is a picturesque bus ride from Swansea. Meanwhile from Cardiff you can reach the seaside town of Penarth in under 15 minutes or take the train to Llantwit Major in an hour to enjoy the Vale of Glamorgan’s Heritage Coast – including the southernmost point in the country at Rhoose Point. After a spell of rain, head to Henrhyd Falls in the Brecon Beacons to gaze in awe at the dramatic cascading water. Or, after snowfall, try the walk to Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia to see the water freeze beneath snow-capped mountains.

The cycle of life
Winter doesn’t put a stop to two-wheeled fun in Wales. Coed Llandegla – just 20 minutes’ drive from Chester – is perhaps the most accessible collection of mountain bike trails in the north, offering a range of graded runs for beginners to pros. Also up there is Antur Stiniog bike park at Blaenau Ffestiniog, which also runs a regular uplift service (meaning more time riding and less time pushing uphill). While it has even hosted the British Downhill Championships, there are plenty of intro blue trails for the novice. In the south are Brechfa near Carmarthen and BikePark Wales near Merthyr Tydfil, both offering green, blue, red, black and pro trails to suit all bikers. For a laid-back ride, there’s a range of trails on the National Cycle Network to sample: Monmouth’s 7.5-mile, mainly traffic-free Peregrine Path follows the River Wye to Symonds Yat and is popular with families; and Llanelli’s Swiss Valley Cycle Route takes in more than 10 miles of peaceful cycling, following a disused railway line.

Where the action is
Rivers, mountains, caves, coast and forests … with an envious array of terrains, Wales offers high-octane adventures for those who like to stay active regardless of the season. Water babies will be in their element in Bala, home to the National White Water Centre, which offers both taster sessions and full-on weekend escapades with all equipment provided. Hell’s Mouth on the Llŷn peninsula, despite its name, is actually a fantastic spot for surfers of all levels. Speed demons will want to try ziplining on the fastest one in the world in Snowdonia’s Zip World Penrhyn Quarry, and kids and adults alike will love Bounce Below’s underground trampoline course.

Red Kite Earth Conker
Sleep in Chillderness’s ‘conker’ pods with creature comforts, and watch the red kites in Powys
Photograph: PR IMAGE

Switch on the glamp
Whether it’s a treat after a long walk or a long year, there’s magic in finding your own little cwtch (snug area) and simply relaxing amid the glorious Welsh scenery. Glamping options allow you to sleep alongside nature in utter comfort. Mid-Wales is home to certified organic Treberfedd Farm, just 20 minutes from Cardigan Bay, which offers eco-cabins, made from local timber and powered by green energy, complete with wood-fired hot tubs. In Monmouthshire you can snuggle up in a yurt in front of your own wood-burning stove at Penhein Glamping, in a site that also offers up sumptuous underfloor heating and monsoon showers or a dip in a roll-top bath. For romantics, a wooden treehouse in the Welsh borders could be lifted from a fairytale – only this one boasts private hammocks and hot tubs. To go a little wilder, there are safari-style tents (with hot tubs, naturally) in Welshpool, or in Powys you’ll find “conkers” you can sleep in while you watch the resident red kites soar overhead. For those who just want a simple life in the woods, there’s Walden Lodge in St Donats, a four-sleeping cabin just minutes’ walk from the bewitching coast whose views you will never tire of.

Find inspiration for your winter break at Visit Wales

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