My partner and I are both creatives. Six years ago we were living in a tiny apartment in Sydney’s inner west, and I was paying extra for a studio. It wasn’t sustainable so we decided to move to Katoomba, on the traditional lands of the Dharug and Gundungurra people.
I read an article recently saying something like “skip it, it’s not at its best” but Katoomba has a beautiful authenticity, even if it’s not quite polished.
Our closest upper mountain towns are Leura and Blackheath. Katoomba is all old-world treasures and beautiful building facades. Blackheath has the incredible Victory Theatre Antique Centre, Gleebooks, Hat Hill Records & Audio and great rock climbing and hikes. Leura has an upscale main drag full of lifestyle and fashion stores, but it gets busy on weekends. I recommend walking the backstreets to see the cute cottages and gardens.
Food
Our favourite place to eat is the award-winning Ates in Blackheath. It serves delicious Mediterranean-style share plates and always feels like a special night out. Much of its food is cooked in its 150-year-old wood-fired oven and there’s a greenery-filled courtyard.
On weekends, Tempus Katoomba has a fine-dining menu with an incredible all-Australian drinks list. It’s in the old bank and lots of historical parts remain but the interiors are fun and fresh. On weekday mornings it switches to the Tempest Up Early cafe, serving Little Marionette coffee.
We’re so lucky to have Black Cockatoo bakery here. It’s run by a French expat Alexandre Rivière and uses organic Australian flour and Pepe Saya cultured butter. Savoury or sweet, it’s all delicious. It’s a cool space, too, with custom ply joinery and lots of plants.
We just discovered The Laughing Elephant in Wentworth Falls. It’s an Asian grocer but they make amazing banh mi and laksa at lunchtimes.
Fidelity is a new cafe run by two super-warm and welcoming guys with a deep passion for coffee. The seating spills outside with lots of dogs and friendly vibes. I drink decaf and often feel self-conscious but the baristas at Fidelity are like, “You’ve got to try this decaf!” The house-made chai is great too. Cassiopeia has great coffee and baked goods too; it roasts its beans in Leura.
Nature
Lyrebird Dell walking track in Leura is magical. It’s shaded and cool with waterfalls and tree ferns so it’s great in summer. You can detour down to the Pool of Siloam waterhole for a swim. It has a sandy beach and doesn’t get too crowded.
Lockley Pylon is a three-hour walk (7.2km return) mostly along a ridge in north Leura. It’s known for stunning wildflowers in spring, like boronia and waratah. It’s very exposed, so walking on windy or super-hot days is not advised. At the end there’s an incredible view over the Grose Valley.
Wentworth Falls Lake Park has a new walkway and a viewing platform along the eastern edge that’s pram and wheelchair-friendly. The area still feels wild in places but there’s also a big playground, a cute jetty and ducks. People kayak and canoe here; we like to swim on the north side in the shade of the gumtrees. It’s busy on weekends with people barbecuing and picnicking.
Minnehaha Falls in North Katoomba is 2.7km return with some stairs, but the waterhole at the end is a sublime swimming spot. The track follows Yosemite Creek which has loads of scribbly gums and banksia.
I love native plants but I’m also a sucker for the lilacs, tulips and maples at Everglades House and Gardens. The art deco house is a wonderful glimpse into the past and you can do Devonshire tea in the tearoom. The 12-acre garden is manicured in some parts and bushy in others and you can picnic on the lawn.
Nightlife
Down in the Lawson industrial area (15 minutes’ drive east of Katoomba) is a quarterly experimental arts event run by SIRC_UIT. It’s always a unique experience, with performance and installation, and there’s a pop-up bar and food.
Zoe’s Blackheath has live music, Italian-influenced pub-style food and a great bar for a casual drink.
Mountain Culture Brewpub in Katoomba is in a rambling 1900s building. The co-owner is originally from North Carolina; it has won many awards for its beers. There’s great views and yummy burgers and fried pickles.
Aqua Ignis is a new sauna and bathhouse in Blackheath that’s open until 9pm. It has magnesium baths and a herbal steam room; it’s such a restorative evening. Blue Mountains Sauna in Leura has been around longer; it’s a more traditional Nordic-style space with regular “clothing optional” sessions.
Inspiration
Blue Mountains Cultural Centre in Katoomba is a crucial stop for art lovers. It features touring shows, such as the Archibald prize and the Wynne prize, as well as exhibitions from renowned local artists such as Claire Healy, Sean Cordeiro and Nick Stathopoulos. There’s also an immersive permanent video installation filmed in the national park.
I’m a mural artist, and the encouragement of street art here is so nice. Me and four other female mural artists painted the Froma Lane walkway that connects Katoomba Street to the centre.
Beverley Place was really dilapidated 10 years ago before it was transformed into the Katoomba Street Art Walk. When a wall mural fades a new artist is invited to paint it. It’s a really cool space to walk through. The cultural centre runs short street art tours or you can use a self-guided map.
Landslide Gallery in Wentworth Falls was once an old flour mill. It runs an Australia-wide and international artist-in-residency program and its exhibitions showcase the incredibly diverse mediums of Blue Mountains artists, from ceramics to sculpture, paintings and textile art.
Day Gallery is a commercial gallery in Blackheath; the couple behind it, Helen and Vincent Day, are legends. Their roster of artists is truly inspiring. During Covid lockdowns, renowned local painter and musician Claire Nakazawa (from the band Haiku Hands) created a mural on the external wall as her response to the landscapes after the black summer fires.
Neighbourhood
The area around the Blue Mountains Cultural Centre in Katoomba is getting so vibrant. Katoomba Civic Centre’s gardens are re-landscaped with tree ferns and banksias, and it’s a lovely stroll through the Carrington hotel’s garden down to Katoomba Street.
The Blue Mountains Co-op is near there and has a kiosk with the most amazing soups. The co-op market garden is next to the cultural centre and the Carrington hotel. It’s run by Farm it Forward, which makes unused pieces of land productive. This patch was long abandoned and now it has a head farmer and the co-op sells its seasonal organic produce. I painted a produce-inspired mural on an adjoining heritage-listed wall to bring some joy and to revive the space.
Accommodation
The Carrington (from $230 a night) is an old-world beauty and I love looking at the historical photographs of how Katoomba began, with just the Carrington at the top of the hill and this rickety train line.
The Kyah (from $190 per night) is a very cool renovated motel in Blackheath. It has a great restaurant called Blaq, gardens, a tennis court and a hot tub.
Chalets at Blackheath (from $1,300 a night; sleeps two) are very high-end and dreamy. There are four freestanding chalets with bushland views. They have fireplaces, bathtubs and a sundeck; you’re really immersed in the environment and birdsong.
Cloud Parade (from $1,095 a night; sleeps 10) is an Airbnb in Leura with lovely interiors and stunning valley views. It’s only a 15-minute walk to the town centre, which is impressive, because often places with views this good are a fair hike from the shops.
Nastia Gladushchenko is a Ukrainian Australian artist and interior designer
