It’s always at this time of year that I get a flurry of messages from friends, family and distant acquaintances, asking what they can do about their post-summer hyperpigmentation. “It’s getting worse every year,” they tell me.
From freckles to patchiness and melasma moustaches, their symptoms are darker, more stubborn, widespread and slower to fade. And while there are certainly more glamorous topics to discuss, this is clearly one that’s preoccupying us more than most. So here goes…
What is hyperpigmentation?
The umbrella term for the dark spots that so many of us develop across our faces and bodies as we age. It happens when we produce excess melanin, the natural brown pigment that lends our skin its colour. No matter your age, sex or skin tone, no one is exempt.
Hyperpigmentation is non-discriminatory and can affect us all. The exact reasons for this excess production vary hugely. They include hormones, inflammation, allergies, wound healing, medication and even repeated actions such as plucking, waxing or shaving; essentially anything that inflames or irritates the skin. But most dark spots are caused by sun exposure, as increased levels of UV stimulate melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells, to make more melanin as a defense mechanism.
New season, new start
The good news is that with the right products and treatment plan, you can turn things around. And autumn is the perfect time to do it. “At this time of year UV levels drop, so skin is less reactive and more resilient,” explains Debbie Thomas, skin and laser expert and founder of the D.Thomas Clinic. “It’s the perfect window for those treatments that are traditionally more risky in peak summer sun.”
Put in the homework first
First things first: to see real results you need to be ruthlessly methodical and committed. Lack of consistency is the biggest saboteur of success when it comes to hyperpigmentation. “Every effective regime should have three key cornerstones,” explains aesthetics practitioner Dr David Jack. “The inhibition of melanin production, increased turnover of pigmented skin cells and robust daily UV protection.”
Once you’re up and cleansed, your morning job is to protect skin from further damage. Look for a gentle but hard-working antioxidant serum with pigment-inhibiting ingredients such as tranexamic, azelaic and kojic acids, niacinamide and ideally vitamin C — an antioxidant dermatologists have long loved for its ability to brighten skin and minimise dark spots. Follow with a broad spectrum SPF with high UVA and UVB protection such as Intradermology Synergy 6 NX-Gen SPF50 (£51, nakedhealth.com) or Ultraviolette Future Fluid SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen (£38, cultbeauty.co.uk).
Come evening, the focus should be on renewal and regeneration to speed up the clearance of pigmented skin cells. You can do this with traditional exfoliators such as glycolic, lactic, salicylic and mandelic acid, but most experts recommend adding a retinoid or retinol-based product for a real boost. “Use these with care to avoid irritation,” advises oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetics expert Dr Maryam Zamani. “And don’t forget a barrier-supporting moisturiser to maintain skin health and prevent inflammation.” Stick with your at-home routine for three to four months before assessing progress. If the pigmentation still won’t budge, it’s probably time to consider professional help.
Clinic bound? Try these for size…
Dr Maryam Zamani, 110-112 King’s Road, SW3
A long-term melasma sufferer, Zamani has developed a new gold-standard protocol to treat this hormone-driven, highly complex form of hyperpigmentation. It’s based on progressive rather than aggressive treatment, combining advanced technology to target pigment at multiple levels with clinically proven topicals to calm melanocyte activity without causing inflammation. (From £2,200, drmaryamzamani.com)
Debbie Thomas at the D. Thomas Clinic, 25 Walton Street, SW3
With more than 25 years of experience, skincare expert Thomas delivers consistently excellent diagnostics and results. Her tailored hyperpigmentation treatment plans include lasers, peels and microneedling. Expect excellent support with at-home care to maintain results too. Her top tip for success? “Don’t chop and change products before they’ve had time to work — pigmentation needs patience and consistency.” (From £310, d.thomas.com)
Dr David Jack, 22A The Royal Exchange, EC3
Dr Jack’s approach is highly diagnostic and targeted, ensuring the right treatment for your hyperpigmentation type. It often starts with his superlative pigmentation facial — a mix of exfoliation, targeted brightening, mesotherapy and, where appropriate, microneedling, chemical peels and Lumecca IPL. (From £450, drdavidjack.com)
Add these spot-on hyperpigmentation treatments to your arsenal
Dr David Jack Yellow Face Peel Treatment Mask for Pigmentation - A potent weekly treatment that inhibits melanin, brightens and resurfaces skin (£149, drdavidjack.com)
Skin Rocks The Hyperpigmentation Serum - A targeted, active-packed serum that works to help fade dark marks, sun spots and melasma (£85, skinrocks.com)
Beauty Pie Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renew Serum - An advanced, multipurpose serum that stops just shy of prescription strength. (£82 or £49 for members, beautypie.com)
Aestura Atobarrier365 Cream - This ceramide-packed Korean import helps restore and strengthen the skin’s barrier. (£26, sephora.com)
Medik8 Press & Glow Daily Exfoliating PHA Tonic with Enzyme Activator - Gently sweeps away dead skin cells to smooth and refine skin. (£32, medik8.com)
La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Intense Anti Dark Spot Serum - This clever serum with 10% niacinamide targets hyperpigmentation while strengthening skin (£48, laroche-posay.co.uk)
Medik8 Press & Glow daily exfoliating PHA tonic, (£32, medik8.com) - Suitable even for sensitive skin this toner uses PHAs to revise and refine dull, uneven skin.
Augustinus Bader The Vitamin C Serum (£290, augustinusbader.com) - Clinically proven to brighten skin, even tone, and protect against damage without irritation.
