It’s -9 degrees, just past midnight, and I’m shivering despite wearing five layers underneath my coat. I’ll admit this might not sound like everyone’s idea of a dream holiday, but the word I’d use to describe Tromsø – the city famously known as the “Gateway to the Arctic” – is extraordinary.
Plus, with the 2025/2026 season allegedly the best time to see the Northern Lights in 11 years, there might be no better place to fly to soak up some winter wonder.
That’s precisely what I’m doing awake and outside in the early, freezing hours. I’ve booked onto a tour run by Tromsø Friluftsenter (tromso-friluftsenter.no), one of the oldest companies in the city, with over 20 years experience monitoring the weather and chasing the lights. As I board the minibus just after 6pm, the driver tells me to get ready for what could be a late night. “We’ll keep driving until we find them,” he says.
Tromsø's official website boasts "there will always be good chances of Northern Lights, regardless of the sun’s cycles". But, you need a healthy dose of luck too: if there’s too much cloud cover or not enough solar activity, you’re not going to see them.
Fortunately for me, battling the elements has been absolutely worth it: after about three hours of waiting and driving through the night, I catch a glimpse of the swirling, technicoloured mosaic spreading across the night sky. It is even more dizzying and captivating than I could ever have imagined.
On the tour, we’re told the best time to see the Aurora is in the winter months, when the long, dark polar nights prevail. From late November through to mid-January, the sun doesn’t rise in Tromsø at all, while the summer gifts the city with days where the sun stays just above the horizon for 24 hours. I watch as sections of the day are lit in a dreamlike wash of deep blue and violet, before giving way to complete nightfall, courtesy of my December trip.
Where to eat and drink
It takes some getting used to, but the city’s rhythm continues much as usual. For breakfast, I head down to Vervet Bakeri, (vervetbakeri.no) where they bake hot cinnamon buns fresh each morning.
Later in the afternoon, I queue up at the world’s smallest bar, Raketten (instagram.com/rakettentromso), to get a mulled wine, while others order reindeer hot dogs. “It just tastes like a normal hot dog,” a man next to me shrugs, “It’s still pretty good”.
Walking around the city centre takes much longer than it would otherwise; even though I’m wearing shoe spikes, the ground is slick with ice. In the cold, taking breaks is essential, so after soaking up the snowglobe-like scenery down at the harbour, I walk up to what might look like just your average McDonald’s.
Inside, big letters announce that we have entered “the northernmost McDonald’s in the world.” A visit here is an absolute must if you’re in Tromsø; you can even order a souvenir postcode on the large self-service screens, along with your sweet potato fries (yes, really).
Where to stay, what to do
Back at the hotel – the wonderful The Dock 69°39 by Scandic (scandichotels.com), which partners with Vervet Adventures, the tour company that organised all my excursions – I'm advised to brave a dip in the Arctic waters.
Just a short walk away, I find the small, charming Hotpot Sauna (vervetadventures.no); it's a small floating retreat on the sea that offers guests the chance to plunge into the deep, icy waters surrounded by high, snowy peaks. Although I had to coax myself into taking the leap, I emerged feeling more invigorated than I have all year.
The bone-chilling waters are only one of the snapshots from Tromsø that will remain etched into my memory. On a 7-hour boat trip organised by the family-run company Helgøy Skyssbåt (helgoy.no), the group speeds toward the island of Skjervøy on the fastest boat in the city, deep into whale territory.
Here, pods of orcas glide effortlessly past the ship, while a humpback whale breaches, towering and magnificent, out of the sea. Standing on the boat’s deck might be the coldest I’ve ever been, but the sheer spectacle of seeing these giants in their natural habitat made every second worth it.
For festive fun seekers, a reindeer experience might be the thing that gets you well and truly in the Christmas spirit. During a visit to a Sami camp (tromsoarcticreindeer.com), I'm introduced to herds of reindeer, peacefully grazing across what seems like acres of pristine snow.
With food tucked into my thick-gloved hand, I'm encouraged to approach and feed them – they’re surprisingly gentle and curious creatures. For a few minutes, everything feels serene and still; it's like a scene from a perfect winter postcard.
