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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Business
Joanna Hodgson

UK retailers see smart wear in fashion as office use picks up

The year was 2020, the month was March and the work outfit was a crisp white shirt with tracksuit bottoms and Ugg boots. Don't judge this fashion crime- I was among the scores of Brits that found myself suddenly doing my job from the kitchen table. I had to look smart from the waist up to interview CEOs via Zoom about what businesses made of this new Coronavirus crisis, but also had to keep warm and hence my normal go-to black bootcut trousers and black shoes (one of several pairs) were swapped with loungewear.

For many of us the traditional work office 'uniform' has long been back, and for others the days of a monday to friday much more relaxed look could be outnumbered.

While the pandemic's game-changing work from home experiment showed us that doing your job from a laptop at home is very possible, a raft of employers in London want staff back in headquarters for more days per week, even if they offer hybrid working.

Many shirtmakers and blazer sellers, from High Street stalwarts to Savile Row brands, will likely enjoy hearing that a host of building owners have pointed to signs of improved office occupancy recently in the capital, while some FTSE 100 and 250 property developers have reported good occupier interest in new towers and schemes joining the London skyline.

So are companies that sell formalwear in the UK seeing higher demand? And although more people are in town centres than there were during the pandemic, are there other challenges that fashion brands will face?

Retailer Hawes & Curtis is planning more store openings (hawes&curtis)

Looking at accounts for Hawes & Curtis, reported in the Evening Standard this week, there has certainly been a big bounce back in sales. The chain recorded a 80% turnover leap to £43.8 million in 2022, and the report points to more normality returning to retail trading.

Certainly the lifting of lockdown rules meant for many last year there were plenty of reasons to go suit shopping: postponed weddings galore, in real-life job interviews, and heading back to offices. For some buyers refreshing the wardrobe may have been necessary after piling on weight during Covid-19 restrictions.

The popularity of smartwear has also continued into 2023 figures that a host of brands have shared with the Evening Standard would suggest. At John Lewis' womenswear division sales of its black work blazers over the past four weeks have surged 79% from the same period last year, while the navy version is up 67%.

A spokesman adds: "On top of the classic workwear blazers we are also seeing success with interest fabric blazers, where we introduced Tweed, Houndstooth and Boucle fabrications for this Autumn/Winter."

Over at online womenswear retailer Sosandar, which is eyeing its first standalone store openings in 2024, a spokesman says: "We have seen a huge resurgence in smart dressing, in particular in suits, smart jackets and trousers of all types including leather and faux leather."

Womenswear firm Sosandar has seen a

He adds: "The trend for suiting and smart separates is multi use, its occasionwear, office working, or a chic casual look worn with trainers."

Sosandar said sales of 'separates', which includes jackets, trousers and skirts, were 58% higher in October than a year earlier. Much of this will include smart wear, but not all.

Meanwhile demand for tailoring is good but changing in parts of the luxury sector, according to Sean Dixon, the co-founder of Savile Row tailor Richard James.

In a trend that had been picking up pre-Covid, the company has seen higher interest in bolder colours and textures.

Dixon says: "People still want to look smart when they visit the office, even if it is not every day. In fact there appears to be a desire to make more of an effort when they do. Suits or tailoring are no longer seen as a uniform but a chance to be more expressive."

He adds: "There is a more relaxed approach but an appreciation that a well-cut jacket and trousers will always make the wearer look and feel better."

People still want to look smart when they visit the office, even if it is not every day

Sean Dixon at Richard James

But like other brands in the luxury market, the managing director of Richard James has concerns about the 2021 loss of VAT-free shopping for international visitors: "Without doubt the VAT issue hinders our business. London is at a distinct disadvantage to its European competitors."

Dixon comments: "We constantly hear from our overseas customers how they would purchase more if the refund was available as it was before."

Among other challenges is that fashion firms are exposed if shoppers cut back on spending as they grapple higher rents, mortgages and other bills. Jacqueline Windsor, head of retail at PwC UK, also flags competition: there are other retailers that can also cater to more casual work looks.

"Hybrid working is redefining workwear. Consumers now have more choice of brands that serve the work occasion including streetwear, athleisure and sports brands who have extended their ranges and wardrobe solutions. But they are mindful of pressures on their discretionary spend - choosing investment pieces that transcend fashion seasons," says Windsor.

Alice Price, associate apparel analyst at consultancy GlobalData also points to work wardrobes having evolved for many people, good news for those not yet ready to part with WFH attire.

Price comments: "As the UK continues to grapple with the cost-of-living crisis, shoppers are also increasingly favouring versatility, and opting for styles they can wear both inside and outside the office. The return of office working has also benefitted high street sales thanks to increased footfall, capturing sales from office workers browsing stores during lunch hours or after work."

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