Ireland always manages to capture me, and every time I visit I feel a great sense of connection with the place, the people and the way life is lived here. The slower pace of life is compensated by the immense charm that pervades the atmosphere, everyone asks me about my journey, and where I’m from, a typical example of the warm welcome and friendliness of Ireland and its people.
My first stop is Kilkenny, a delightful city on Dublin’s doorstep. The impressive castle and fun walking tour was followed by my highlight, the ‘Hurling Experience’ tour, in which I was taught all about this ancient and quintessentially Irish game. I even get to try my hands at the skills as Eion, our infectiously passionate guide, leads us to Kilkenny’s ground, and onto the vast hurling pitch itself.
On a tour of the dressing rooms we even meet a legend of Irish hurling, Henry Shefflin. He smiles modestly whilst Eion announces that he won a record breaking nine All Ireland hurling medals.
I’m well looked after at the Lyrath Estate Hotel, and am utterly spoiled by the gorgeous food at the Campagne, serving modern French food using locally sourced Irish ingredients. The early bird menu is amazing value.
The drive to Waterford is also a breeze and I’m soon in the centre of a city that I’d never had time before to visit properly. A few hours later, having completed another entertaining walking tour and visited the Medieval Museum and Bishop’s Palace museum, I feel like an expert in the city’s history, which started with the Viking’s invasion. The old port has gone now but on our walking tour guide Jack fills us in on just how bustling a port it would have been, even as far back as Viking times.
Soon we’re standing outside Reginald’s Tower, the oldest civic, urban structure in Ireland, built by the Vikings and conquered by the Anglo Normans – with walls that are 10 feet thick. Before it stands a replica of a Viking longboat, the type that would have been full of warriors poised and ready for battle. Tired, but happy, I sleep in the luxurious four poster bed of the Waterford Castle Hotel, romantically situated on a small island in the River Suir and reached by a short ferry ride only.
The final day of my trip takes me up to New Ross, and I treat myself to the tour on the Dunbrody famine ship. This ought to be daunting, but somehow it isn’t. The chirpy tour guide sees to that, instructing us that we’re are all now emigrants in steerage class, and showing us around our grim quarters below deck. Were this for real, and not just pretend, we would be in darkness in this space for almost the entirety of the five week voyage. Re-enactments from actors who engage in lively banter with the audience keep spirits up and makes this a memorable and unique experience.
Onwards to Enniscorthy – and the 1798 Visitor museum. High tech with impressive holograms I’m now witnessing the background and intricate details to the Battle of Vinegar Hill, just outside the city walls. Nearby Enniscorthy Castle offers a neat little museum some of which covers the more recent Irish history, which I followed with a nice pint and a chat with the landlord. I always feel welcome in the country’s hospitable pubs.
My trip in South East Ireland is over. I’m fired up with a renewed passion for this country. I may be dusting off my fridge and coming back real soon.
