The sound of a scream left me rooted to the ground – I quickly glanced around to see any signs of life, but there was nothing except the jackdaws bickering like teenagers in the trees. I was standing in a churchyard in Pluckley, allegedly the most haunted village in Britain (according to the Guinness World Records), and I was scared. And then I heard it again, this time, there were more. But it was the middle of the day, surely you don’t see ghosts on a slightly misty Sunday afternoon in October?
I know most people love Halloween, with its associated ghosts, ghouls and ghastly goings-on, but I can’t stand it. Even as a child I refused to dress up and go trick-or-treating. The closest I got one year was reluctantly dressing up as Maud from The Worst Witch, horn-rimmed glasses and all, for a fancy dress party, I ended up leaving early. But I fear my days of avoiding that certain day at the end of October are numbered as my son is likely to be swept along with the fervour of this time of year, and I don’t want to seem like a pumpkin-party-pooper. So I did what any mother does, I pulled on my wellies and headed to the countryside in search of ghosts.
Pluckley sits on the edge of the North Downs in Kent, a little over an hour away from London. It’s a charming village full of redbrick cottages and houses framed by rambling roses climbing the walls, and fruit trees groaning with the abundance of autumn. Everything feels perfectly orderly, even the windows are all the same, known locally as “Dering windows”, after Sir Edward Dering, who escaped capture by the Roundheads through the top of a narrowly arched window during the civil war. But this wasn’t an architectural tour; I was on the hunt for ghosts.
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There are allegedly 12 or 13 ghosts in and around the village including the phantom coach and horses that can be seen riding around the village lanes, the ghost of the woman who drowned in a watercress stream outside the village, both the “white” and “red” lady who haunt the churchyard of St Nicholas’ Church in the centre of the village, and a little white dog who sounds a bit like Tintin’s Snowy who can also be seen wandering in between the graves. These, coupled with ghosts from hangings, clay smotherings at the local brickworks and the violent murder of a highwayman, all make for a very sinister and macabre setting.
The haunted epicentre is said to be the village pub, The Black Horse. With the building dating back to 1420, it makes sense that it’s a drawcard for ghost hunters from all over the world. When I visited, it seemed much more like a bustling country pub on a Sunday afternoon full of customers who’d come out for a pint and a bite to eat. But I wanted to know more. Andy, the landlord, kindly indulged me and showed me up to the attic, said to be one of the most haunted places in the pub. As myself, Andy and my partner sat in darkness, the only sense of foreboding I felt was how I was going to navigate my descent on the very rickety stairs. He assured me that at night-time it was more “spooky”, but as we were still sitting in darkness, I didn’t need much convincing. I needed to head out into the late autumn afternoon to see what else I could find.
Adjacent to the pub is the 900-year-old St Nicholas’ Church. It’s a beautifully preserved grade I-listed building surrounded by a churchyard with ancient yews, as well as oak, beech and sycamore trees planted among the graves. It was here that I heard the screams. I walked through the Lych-gate, past the village apple orchard and through a large hedge where I found the source of the curdling sounds – it was a group of friends playing a very animated game of football on the village green. There really didn’t seem to be anything sinister about this delightful village. In fact, it was the location of the deeply un-terrifying TV classic The Darling Buds of May, the book’s author, HE Bates lived on the outskirts of the village, so you definitely feel more “perfick” than petrified.
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But I couldn’t leave the area without visiting Dering Woods, known in folklore as “The Screaming Woods”, located between the villages of Smarden and Pluckley. The stories of this woodland include sinister disappearances, and the sounds of terrifying screams that can be heard in the middle of the night. I’m not crazy, so I decided to opt for a slightly murky afternoon stroll instead of a midnight meander. I’d been warned that I’d see shadows darting through the ancient landscape even in the daytime, but I can assure you, I didn’t.
Instead I had a gloriously relaxing walk through an area that’s been continuously wooded since the early medieval period, and is even mentioned in the Domesday Book. It’s made up of mainly oak and hornbeams along with grasses and ferns. I think you’re more likely to be blessed with a rare sighting of a hazel dormouse or the swooping of a brown long-eared bat than seeing a ghost.
This corner of Kent feels little changed for decades with endearing villages, deep country lanes all surrounded by sweeping hedgerow fields, hop gardens and apple orchards. It’s home to some wonderful places to visit, including the magnificent Leeds Castle, which was built solely as a weekend retreat in the 13th century. Staying overnight, as I did, gives you private access to the grounds away from the daytime crowds (as well as the castle during opening hours) which I took full advantage of. I think this is where I most likely felt the presence of ghosts, but not the sort that’d scare you. Strolling alone in the early morning through the expansive parkland, watching the mist rise over the moat, you could imagine stumbling across Charlie Chaplin or a young John F Kennedy after one of Lady Baillie’s champagne-fuelled party weekends in the castle. Now those are the sorts of ghosts I can definitely believe in.
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How to get there
Southeastern trains run frequent services to and from Bearsted, which take just over an hour from London, and driving time is around the same.
Where to stay and visit
You’ll find a range of charming accommodation including comfortable rooms in the stable block at Leeds Castle, as well as refined lakeside lodges. A stay includes access to the grounds and castle.
Pluckley is surrounded by some wonderful sites, so why not also visit:
Leeds Castle: A glorious parkland and castle complete with maze and adventure playground
Sissinghurst Castle Gardens: A National Trust property with outstanding gardens
Westwell Vineyards: One of Kent’s best vineyards with warm welcome and excellent tastings, tours and events.
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