Jersey has its natural wonders – think rugged, pink granite beaches – and a remarkable history, including Nazi occupation during the Second World War. But two new openings point towards reinvention on the tiny island, making it a surprising destination for a cultural getaway.
This October, the Jersey Opera House will welcome visitors after a five-year restoration, housing the island’s first national ballet company: Ballet d’Jérri. A glistening chandelier in a hand-painted dome is the literal jewel in its crown.
The dance company will premiere original works alongside a programme of theatre, musicals and comedy. It's good news for locals and holidaymakers, who now have a smorgasbord of events to travel for.
Fresh, young voices are emerging in Jersey – the pull of a quiet island oasis has brought a large wave of migrants and Jersey-born talent back to its shores. The cost of living, and expensive housing, still prohibits many young artists from returning, but a collective is gathering.
Carolyn Rose Ramsay, the founder of Ballet d’Jérri, found a new home in Jersey during the pandemic. Originally from Vancouver, and having danced in ballet companies across the world, Ramsay embraced the “magical, rejuvenating” hum of the island, quickly pulling together a group of world-class dancers. For a place 14 times tinier than Greater London, founding a company is no small feat.
A “sister” cultural institution to the ballet, ArtHouse Jersey, is moving from its farming village roots to St Helier, the island’s multicultural capital city.
Read more: The best museums you should visit in the UK
Its community outreach project, Abundant Futures, facilitates conversations between Jersey’s native and migrant Romanian, Portuguese and Polish populations to discover exactly what life is like on the island.
Major projects like this are complimented by ArtHouse Jersey’s gallery and pop-ups such as the Bubbletecture festival, which involved a playful public art installation of 8-metre-high iridescent sculpture.
For visitors keen to explore the cultural side of St Helier, a trip to the Harbour Gallery – a grassroots, community collective of local artists – is vital. The group sells their wares within a colourfully-canvassed multi-story building, which makes it an ideal place to dig out an arty souvenir.
Elsewhere, guests can uncover the stories of European artists like novelist Victor Hugo and surrealist Claude Cahun, who took refuge on the island (and was a crucial member of resistance to the Nazis). The Jersey Museum, in particular, has exhibits that explore the two artists’ relationships to the unlikely outpost.
Keep an eye out, too, for seasonal events, such as the Festival of Words – the island’s impressive September book fair now in its 10th year – and the Jersey Folk Festival, which takes over a cosy farm house in November.
It’s possible to combine the island’s beautiful landscapes with its more artistic side, too. Grab your board, and take a trip to the surfer’s paradise of St Ouen’s Bay on the west coast. At seaside bar Watersplash, the brightest new talents play indie tunes as the sun sets. The spinach and blue cheese pizza comes highly recommended.
In fact, one of the greatest joys of the island is exploring the dramatic coastline. Each corner can be reached in a 30-minute drive or a slightly longer bus, which offers plentiful daytime inspiration between artistic pursuits.
Read more: The 16 most haunted places in the UK
There are dozens of Jersey Heritage sites open to the pubic, which unlock the island’s treasures. La Hougue Bie is home to a remarkable neolithic ritual chamber, constructed in around 4,000BC – it’s one of the ten oldest buildings in the world. Also on the site are Second World War bunkers and a 16th-century chapel, making it a mind-bending place to consider the island’s history.
For something more adventurous, explore the island’s enormous tidal range at La Corbiére Lighthouse, accessible by foot only at low tide. And then there’s Jersey’s oldest medieval castle, Mont Orgueil. The monumental fort hosts reenactments of the life of Marie Esnouf, who was accused of witchcraft in the 17th century and awaited trial on the site.
After exploring Jersey’s galleries and monuments, you might have worked up an appetite. As with artists, established chefs are increasingly moving back to Jersey.
Most outstanding is Enoteca, in the relaxing harbour village of St Aubin. A classy Italian eatery run by husband and wife team Kate and Marcello, they let the perfection of simple, artisan produce shine, complimented by an exceptional natural wine list.
For a theatrical evening of fine dining, try Michelin-starred Bohemia in the city centre, which boasts menus of eight exceptional courses. Or on a Sunday evening, tuck into tasty gastropub food at The Bear, and make sure to save space for their legendary desserts.
Jersey’s natural beauty will draw crowds year-on-year, but as the island’s national voice continues to grow, it’s the artists, dancers and artists that will encourage visitors to truly experience the island.
How to get there
EasyJet and British Airways offer 40-minute flights from London Gatwick and Heathrow multiple times a day. Prices average between £100 to £150 for return tickets.
Where to stay
Atlantic Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel which overlooks Ouen’s Bay. Prices start at £300 per night.
For easy access to the cultural delights of St Helier, stay in town at five-star The Club Hotel and Spa, starting at £109 per night.
Maryann Wright was a guest of Visit Jersey.
