Bleaching curly hair can be riskier than lightening straighter types, but as long as you’re doing so carefully, you can definitely experiment with a lighter look.
Anyone with curls knows that curly hairstyles require a little bit more care. Because of its naturally delicate, dry texture, bleaching curly hair can cause issues. It can lead to hair breakage, split ends, and even an altered curl pattern.
But that doesn’t mean that curly-haired amongst us need to shy away from highlights and balayage. It just means that we need to tread a little more carefully before we book into the salon with an optimistic list of blonde hair ideas.
What you should consider before bleaching curly hair
As a curly-haired beauty editor who’s rapidly going grey, I’m quite familiar with the bleach bottle, and after years and different levels of blonde, I’ve learned the best way to bleach curly hair, and how to recover hair from the Sahara-levels of dehydration that follow.
I also spoke to curly colour expert, Issie Churcher, Creative Director at STIL salon, who shares her tips on how to go blonde when you have curls.
1. Your hair should be in a good condition beforehand
“The best way to prepare your hair for being chemically treated, especially bleaching, is to get it into optimum condition,” advises Churcher. “If the hair colour is already natural (never been coloured), that’s ideal, but if it’s been previously coloured, then you’ll need to get healthier hair beforehand.”
It makes sense - if your hair is already on the dry side, bleach will stamp any remaining health out of it. The key to repairing damaged hair, according to Churcher, is to focus on moisture.
“Shampoo with a cleanser designed for colour-treated hair, to help avoid stripping the hair of moisture," she advises. "Follow with a conditioner formulated to lock in hydration and lightly strengthen the hair. Your hair should feel supple and shiny before colour treating.”
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2. You risk damaging your curls
While bleaching curly hair is doable, it’s better to know beforehand that your hair will be affected by the potentially damaging process. “The downside is that the process can affect the natural curl pattern by making it frizzier,” warns Churcher. “In some cases, it can even knock out the curl, making it straighter, and appear lifeless and limp.”
3. It’ll dry out your hair
Bleaching hair is an incredibly drying process, but that’s worsened when your hair type is naturally drier, as most curls are. This is because it’s harder for the natural oils to travel down the kinks and waves of curls.
“Both curly and straight hair are damaged the same if it is overly processed,” explains Churcher. “The main difference with curly or textured hair is that it’s already much drier.” This is why making sure your hair is thoroughly moisturised beforehand - it will help prevent the more dramatic dryness.
4. It might not be right for your hair type
When you have naturally curly hair, there are some things - some hair dreams, really, that you just have to let go of. Having a full fringe. Being able to swish your hair like a shampoo advert. Having a wash day that takes less than 20 minutes. And for some, being blonde might be on that list, according to Churcher.
“Personally, I prefer not to work with bleach on very fine, delicate hair,” she explains. “The long-term effects of bleaching on this hair type often result in damage, loss of curl structure, and worst case scenario, breakage.”
“It's not to say you can’t bleach this hair type,” she explains. “It just means you have to be willing to maintain it. This should include minimal to no heat styling, relying on air drying hair, a good hair care regimen, and regular salon visits for trims and conditioning treatments.”
5. The process will - and should - be slow
If you want to go from chocolate brunette to platinum blonde in a hurry, we’ve got bad news. “As with straight hair, any bleaching process should be avoided within a 4-5 week window of the previous processing,” says Churcher.
“This gives the hair enough time to keratinise and strengthen with the use of a good moisturising aftercare protocol. Lifting the colour at a slower rate can be a more gentle approach to bleaching curly hair, but ultimately it depends on how light the desired result will be.”
6. It can look amazing
It’s not all doom, gloom, and dryness. Bleaching curly hair can look amazing, and even help your curls look more defined. “When bleaching curly hair, it can be easier to create more contrast and dimension without it looking stripy or too bold, thanks to the natural movement and texture of the hair,” says Churcher.
“Essentially, the curl pattern will help diffuse the colour placement, which can also help the growing-out stage appear less obvious,” she says. This means you can space out your colour appointments, whether that's balayage to babylights for longer, saving you time and money.
7. Aftercare is essential
Because bleach strips moisture and keratin from hair, it’s important to give it a bit of extra TLC after your appointment. “After colouring, always finish with a conditioning treatment in the salon to help strengthen and repair the hair,” advises Churcher. “At home, use a shampoo for thirsty hair, and avoid too much protein in your products."
Churcher continues, "Use a treatment mask at least a couple of times a month, depending on how often you wash your hair. If you’re a follower of the curly girl method or opposed to shampooing curls too often, opt for a conditioning rinse when reactivating curls. This will help to lock in added moisture.”
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