From the beach at Pentle Bay, the sea looked tropical – not just blue, but electric, glass-clear and shallow for miles. It was hard to believe I was still in the UK. In recent years, I’ve travelled far in search of postcard beauty, but standing barefoot on the tide-smoothed sand of Tresco, staring out accross its aquamarine shallows, it was clear I’d found something rare. The Isles of Scilly aren’t just beautiful by British standards – they’re beautiful, full stop.
The archipelago, 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, is made up of five inhabited islands and dozens of uninhabited ones.
St Mary’s is the island that works – ferries come and go, posties amble past on foot, and chalkboards list the day’s boat times according to tide. We explored on foot, tracing coastal paths past hedgerows, old walls and sudden sea views. At Juliet’s Garden, the famed crab sandwich fully lived up to its billing: overstuffed, rich, and best eaten slowly in the sun.
Getting between the islands is part of the joy. Each morning, you check the day’s destinations scrawled on the harbour chalkboard, then hop aboard a boat skippered by someone who’s clearly done it for decades. Some vessels featured a Springer Spaniel – loyal deckhands padding between benches, soaking up attention. Timetables flex around the tide, and nobody complains. If part of the joy is checking the chalkboards in the morning, part of the thrill is rushing back in time for the final boat. Miss it and you’re left to your wits – there are no Ubers or late-night Lime bikes here.
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Tresco is the most photogenic of the five – privately owned, perfectly kept, and blanketed with imported palms and bougainvillaea. The beaches here genuinely rival the Caribbean. We wandered to Pentle and Appletree Bays, both long and near-empty, before swimming among crabs and small fishes in the bay.
Bryher is rougher round the edges. The Hell Bay walk winds along cliffs and heath, where the wind knocks conversation flat. We paused for coffee at the Hell Bay Hotel, all sea-glass light and calm interiors, then crossed to Rushy Bay, a soft curve of sand facing the full Atlantic. Bryher invites stillness more than spectacle. It’s not an island to “do”, it’s one to sit quietly and observe.
St Agnes, the southernmost island, felt elemental. We circled the coast on foot, passing gnarled trees, boulders and the occasional half-forgotten boat. The Coastguards Lookout cafe served strong coffee and excellent cake, while the Turk’s Head – perched just above the quay – might be the best-placed pub in the country. You can sip your pint as you watch the boat come in, taking as long as you dare before walking the few hundred metres to the jetty
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And then there’s St Martin’s – gentle, quiet, and in some ways the most restorative of them all. We followed the coastal path to the lighthouse, winding through heather and ferns, before dropping to the beach where a few in our group knelt for more cowrie shell hunting. I admired their dedication before slipping back into the sea instead.
The clearest memory of the trip came on our final full day, when we kayaked from St Martin’s and skimmed across the water towards the uninhabited islets. The sea was calm and perfectly transparent, kelp waving beneath the boats like forest canopies. Before long, grey shapes appeared in our periphery – seals, curious and playful. They’d pop up ahead, fix their eyes on us, then vanish, only to reappear silently behind. They kept their distance, but not by much.
Only then – after all of that – does the journey itself deserve a mention. The sleeper train from London to Penzance doesn’t just get you there; it sets the tone. The Night Riviera has long held a certain romance – a final relic of slower travel – and the experience begins before you’ve even boarded. Paddington’s first-class lounge leads you through Queen Victoria’s old waiting room, adding a faint sense of theatre to the moment you step on board.
Our twin cabin was compact but surprisingly comfortable – two bunks, soft pillows, and a light but sufficient duvet. Everything you needed was there: warm lighting, plug sockets, a washbasin, space for your bags. It felt less like a train and more like a narrow hotel room on rails. As we settled in, the train inspector came through the corridor, upbeat and dryly funny – the kind of person who makes the whole thing feel like an adventure, not just a commute.
We were rocked gently to sleep somewhere past Reading, and woke to the soft curve of the Cornish coast in early light. Breakfast was honey porridge and tea, plus all the free packets of biscuits you could pocket. Not a bad way to start the day.
That, really, is what the Isles of Scilly offer: rhythm, not rush. The food is quietly excellent. The beaches feel endless. Plans are made and gently reshaped by tide and weather. There’s no push, no performance. Just slow, warm days and salt in your hair.
Back in London, it’s tempting to treat the Scillies like a mirage – a place too calm, too bright, too unlikely. But they’re very real. Not hidden, not flashy, not curated. Just quietly magnificent. And sometimes, that’s exactly enough.
How to get there
The easiest way to reach the Isles of Scilly from London is to take the train from Paddington to Penzance, followed by a ferry or flight. Great Western Railway (GWR) services run direct from Paddington to Penzance in around 5 hours, with advance tickets starting from £30-£60 one way, depending on the time of booking.
The Night Riviera sleeper train is also an option for those wanting to travel overnight. Departing from Paddington around 11.45pm, it offers cosy single or twin cabins with access to the historic Queen Victoria Lounge before departure. Standard fares start from around £25, with sleeper berth supplements ranging from £34 to over £100 depending on cabin type and availability – so expect to pay between £60 and £120 in total. A light breakfast and hot drink are included, served in your cabin before arrival in Penzance.
From Penzance, travellers can either:
Take the Scillonian III ferry, which sails to St Mary’s in around 2 hours 45 minutes
Fly from Land’s End Airport, a short taxi ride away, with Skybus flights taking around 20 minutes.
Where to stay
Accommodation on the Isles of Scilly ranges from boutique hotels to self-catering cottages. Standout options include:
Star Castle Hotel (St Mary’s) – A historic 16th-century fortress turned family-run hotel, offering stunning sea views, a vineyard, tennis court, and a much-loved seafood restaurant.
Tregarthen’s Hotel (St Mary’s) – Just minutes from the quay, this harbourside hotel is ideal for island-hopping and exploring Hugh Town. Expect coastal charm and simple comfort.
The New Inn (Tresco) – A relaxed pub-with-rooms on the privately owned island of Tresco, offering a mix of classic comfort and laid-back luxury. Guests have access to the island’s famous Abbey Garden and spa facilities. Doubles from around £200 per night, including breakfast.
Karma St. Martin’s (St Martin’s) – A beachfront boutique hotel with uninterrupted sea views, private terraces, and a peaceful setting far from the crowds. Ideal for a more secluded escape.
It’s worth booking early, particularly during summer and festival periods, as availability on the islands is limited and prices rise quickly.
Rod travelled to the Scilly Isles as a guest of GWR
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