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T3
Technology
Sam Cross

These gem-encrusted watches are stunning – but you can't have one

The Carl F Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral shown in all three colour on a backdrop of the watch movement.
Quick Summary

The latest release from Carl F. Bucherer is a stunning, gem-encrusted timepiece with a killer movement inside.

However, these are – as you'd expect – pricey, and incredibly limited. Want one? You probably can't have one.

There is something of a tier system which we use when ranking the best watches. On the one hand, we have things which – while often still unattainably expensive – are fairly mass appealing in their design.

That's the embodiment of brands like Rolex and Omega, who tend to play it safe with good looking designs that will whet the appetite of the widest range of people.

Then, there is the other side. This encompasses the verbose, the encrusted and the simply marvellous. These are watches designed as artwork, and the results are often stunning.

The latest release from Carl F. Bucherer definitely falls into the latter camp. Dubbed the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral, this is a simply breathtaking timepiece which is just as deserving of a place on the walls of an art gallery as of one on your wrist.

The dial utilises a laser-patterned technique, which results in formations of miniature pyramids. These play with the light superbly, making the dial look as though it moves in the light.

That is topped off with the indices. A total of 11 – one is missing for the tourbillon to sit in – 0.6-carat baguette-cut diamonds adorn the dial, adding to the overall sparkle on show.

If sparkling gemstones are your bag, then there is plenty more to love here. The bezel of each piece is crafted from them, with 5.1-carat sapphires, 4.7-carat tsavorites or 3.5-carat amethysts used depending on which colour you opt for. Each of those is baguette-cut, naturally occurring and hand matches to the colour of the dial.

We've gotten this far and haven't even spoken about that movement. That's a travesty, frankly, as the CFB T3000 calibre housed in this watch is simply marvellous. Intricate finishing is the cherry on the cake here, with a peripheral automatic winding system and a peripherally mounted floating tourbillon fully on show.

The floating tourbillon is simply magnificent to look at, appearing to be simply suspended in mid air. That effect can only be achieved with a rotor which stays out of it's way, circling the movement while still providing up to 65 hours of power reserve.

Priced at a cool £114,000 a piece, these were already appealing to a niche audience. With just 18 pieces of each colour being made, though, availability is likely to be scarce. If you are in the market for one, you'd better be fast.

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