Some skincare ingredients announce themselves with instant, disconcerting tingling or a dramatic glow. Azelaic acid takes a different approach.
It’s steady, considered and easy to fit into a routine, which is why so many experts recommend it to those of us who want calmer, clearer, more balanced skin. But what exactly is it, and how does it work?
Co-founder and in-house pharmacist for Victoria Health Shabir Daya MRPharmS explains that azelaic acid is “a powerful antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, skin-friendly acid suitable for all skin types.” That’s a rare combination. Many acids target breakouts or pigmentation, but few manage to do so with such tolerance across different skin concerns.
He tells me the benefits are wide-ranging. “Azelaic acid helps to calm inflammatory skin concerns and improve an uneven skin tone. It helps inhibit bacterial growth, balances oil secretion and prevents inflammation.” In other words, it multitasks - gently.
If you’re someone who deals with acne one month, redness the next, and persistent pigmentation in between, this single ingredient has the potential to make a difference across the board.
The gentleness of azelaic acid is part of its appeal, making it suitable for most skin types. “It is not one of the stronger acids and it doesn’t usually cause excessive peeling or irritation,” Daya says. This means it tends to slot into a standard skincare routine with minimal fuss.
Still, he does recommend caution for those with very reactive skin. “People with very sensitive skin may experience mild dryness, tingling or redness at first, so starting with lower concentrations and gradual use is often recommended.”
That raises the question of strength. Over-the-counter skincare usually contains up to 10 per cent, while prescription products can go up to 15 or 20 per cent. Daya confirms, “DoSe by VH Azelaic Acid is formulated at 10 per cent.” For many, that level is enough to see results without straying into irritation.
Then, there’s the matter of format. Should you use a cleanser, a cream or a serum? Daya is clear in Victoria Health’s approach, “We chose to formulate azelaic acid as a serum because leave-on products allow the ingredient more time to penetrate the skin, making them more effective than wash-off formats.” DoSe By VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum combines azelaic acid with sodium lactate, jojoba protein and hyaluronic acid to add hydration and comfort, a thoughtful pairing for those who want results without dryness.
This balance between efficacy and tolerability is what makes azelaic acid so useful. It’s strong enough to take on acne, redness and uneven tone, yet kind enough to be a long-term companion in your routine.
Below, I’ve curated a selection of the best products that make the most of this ingredient, so you can find the version that works for your skin.
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DoSe by VH Azelaic Acid 10% Serum
This creamy serum delivers 10 per cent azelaic acid in a hydrating, leave-on formula. Key actives include glycerin, hyaluronic acid and allantoin to soothe and moisturise while azelaic acid tackles breakouts, uneven tone and inflammation. The water-based formula ensures easy layering and gentle daily use.
Buy now £15.00, Victoria Health
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml
Anua focuses on sensitivity with this formula, combining 10 per cent azelaic acid and hyaluronic acid with calming botanicals like blue tansy, green tea, aloe and centella. Niacinamide and zinc PCA help refine texture and regulate oil, while the lightweight, watery texture makes it easy to layer under moisturiser or SPF. It’s designed for skin that flares easily, offering hydration and balance while addressing congestion and redness at the same time.
Buy now £22.00, Cult Beauty
ALLIES OF SKIN Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum 30ml
ALLIES OF SKIN blends azelaic acid with kojic acid and hexylresorcinol to create a serum that addresses pigmentation, uneven tone and breakouts simultaneously. Niacinamide helps minimise pores, while licorice root, bakuchiol and antioxidants round out the soothing and protective benefits. It’s a high-end option that aims to tackle multiple concerns at once, making it an investment for those who want results across clarity, texture and resilience.
Buy now £94.00, Sephora
Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 20% Cream
For those looking for higher strength, Dermatica’s cream contains 20 per cent azelaic acid — one of the strongest concentrations available without prescription. It’s supported by glycerin, squalane and ceramides, which help protect the barrier and maintain hydration. The creamy texture feels nourishing rather than harsh, making it suitable for tackling pigmentation and congestion while keeping skin comfort in mind.
Buy now £19.99, Amazon
Naturium Azelaic Acid 10% 30ml
Naturium offers a straightforward take with 10 per cent azelaic acid in a hydrating base that also includes glycerin and jojoba. The lightweight serum is designed to calm blemishes, brighten uneven tone and slot neatly into most routines. Easy to layer and well-tolerated by a wide range of skin types, it’s a no-nonsense formula at an accessible price point.
Buy now £22.00, Space NK
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The Ordinary delivers azelaic acid in a creamy, silicone-based formula that glides on like a primer. With 10 per cent concentration, it brightens uneven tone, reduces blemishes and lends a soft-focus finish to the skin. Free from alcohol and oil, it also includes emollients and moisturising factors to stop things from feeling too dry. A straightforward and affordable way to test the benefits of azelaic acid.
Buy now £11.83, Lookfantastic
Q+A Azelaic Acid Facial Serum 30ml
Q+A’s option is one of the most accessible on the list. The formula pairs azelaic acid with zinc PCA to balance oil and aloe vera to soothe irritation. It’s fragrance-free, alcohol-free and formulated with sensitive skin in mind. The fluid texture absorbs quickly and doesn’t interfere with SPF or moisturiser, making it easy to slot into a simple routine.
Buy now £7.13, H&B
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Paula’s Choice takes a multitasking approach with this booster. Azelaic acid at 10 per cent is joined by salicylic acid for gentle exfoliation and licorice extract for brightening. Adenosine is added to calm and support the skin barrier, so it’s effective against breakouts, redness and pigmentation in one step. The lightweight cream-gel texture can be used alone or mixed into your moisturiser, making it a versatile choice.
Buy now £42.00, Amazon
La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel Cream Daily Moisturiser for Breakouts & Ageing with 10% Azelaic Acid & Salicylic Acid 40ml
La Roche-Posay’s daily moisturiser brings together azelaic acid, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid in a gel-cream texture. The blend targets blemishes and clogged pores while keeping hydration levels up and fine lines softened. Thermal spring water adds an extra soothing element, true to the brand’s DNA. It’s designed for breakout-prone skin that’s also dealing with early signs of ageing, and it absorbs quickly without leaving residue.
Buy now £33.00, Lookfantastic
medicube - Azelaic Acid Niacinamide Deep Clean Foam Cleanser - 120g
K-Beauty favourite Medicube brings azelaic acid into the cleansing step, pairing it with niacinamide to control oil and refine pores. The foaming formula lifts away impurities and excess sebum without leaving skin tight or stripped. Because it rinses off, the effect is gentler than a leave-on product, making it a useful option for those who prefer to start slow or combine their cleanser with a stronger serum later.
Buy now £16.50, StyleVana
