Last weekend, I witnessed Londoners wearing puffer jackets with bare legs; wooly hats on top and open-toed sandals on their feet — all in the course of one blustery-balmy morning. Clearly, it’s a confusing time, weather-wise, to get dressed.
What to wear on your feet is a particular conundrum right now. Is a gap between foot and ankle, exposing a sliver of skin that could instantly develop goosebumps, still appropriate considering it’s October? Or is it boots — and only boots — for the foreseeable? And besides practicality, what shoes will immediately telegraph the right message for the new season?
From the hot-again heel to the trending sneaker, consider this your guide to nailing autumn footwear courtesy of the catwalks.
Alt court heels
Miuccia Prada’s outfits have become as influential as the looks on her runway. In February, the designer took her bow in tobacco-hued satin court shoes. It was a shoe that appeared in the collection, as well as versions with a knife-sharp toe, a demure 5.5cm heel and raw-cut edges to antiqued leather, a thrilling makeover for a style of footwear that’s come to be associated with politicians, senior royals and CEOs.
At Ferragamo, too, the court was given a twist courtesy of a flower, which blossomed from its toe and left show-goers in no doubt that courts were once again a tantalising proposition.
The high street has more than delivered this autumn, buying into courts that are a little more “alt” than versions you might remember. Massimo Dutti’s 5cm court (£119, massimodutti.com) fits like a glove with an ostrich-print effect to its leather. While Toteme has a high-end version in a creamy shade of croc (£550, toteme.com).
If you want something statuesque, however, Jude’s Fame pumps (£390, harveynichols.com) are the one. The shoe brand has the most illustrious fan club in the business — Chloë Sevigny, Ruth Negga and Marion Cotillard — and its court has a sculpturally curved 10.5cm heel that will elevate any outfit (quite literally).
For something simple try Russell and Bromley’s Hillcliffe Court Mid heels (£275, russellandbromley.co.uk).
High-vamp loafers
Toe cleavage used to be trending. Now, however, it’s more about the high vamp, the piece of leather that usually stretches from toe to midway up the foot — or, in the case of this season, above and beyond. Take the formerly bookish loafer as an example, where the vamp in some cases now almost reaches the base of the leg (Tracee Ellis Ross wore a pair to sit front row at Givenchy, FYI).
At Miu Miu, the vamp was high and mighty, giving its loafer a flatteringly slimline appearance. Tod’s, similarly, showed a dressier loafer courtesy of high vamp plus silver hardware — a polished bar that stretched from side to side like a bangle.
It’s fair to say the high-vamp loafer has taken over shop floors. Sessun’s Ayana pair (£315, sessun.co.uk) has the gathered detail that’s proven very popular for a few seasons, with a vamp that’s just high enough. Neous’s Polaris pair in chocolate-brown (£550, neous.co.uk) have a deliciously curved toe and corduroy fabrication that feels so right for the seasonal change.
I also love ByFar’s cherry-red leather iteration (£340, byfar.com) and Aeyde’s fringed cream pair (£345, aeyde.com). The high-vamp loafer pairs brilliantly with barrel-leg trousers or sweeping midi skirts, FYI.
Slouched boots
While loafers smarten up this season, boots slouch down. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali’s boho-goddess was given over-the-knee boots that scrunched at strategic points on the leg. Sportmax’s were similarly thigh-high but with extra room in the leg, providing even more slouch-factor that meant, paired with elegantly-short coats, they almost resembled trousers.
The slouchy memo has reached the high street as well, where knee-highs are scrunched to perfection at & Other Stories (£345, stories.com), Dune (£119, dunelondon.com) and Zara (£89.99, zara.com) (the latter’s suede pair has a closer fit but the ability for its wearer to add slouch if so desired).
At Miista (£490, miista.com), meanwhile, one knee-high has a buckle feature running from heel to knee that means you can fasten it at various points to up the scrunch points. Clever, no? This boot has baked-in boho potential so team with denim, either a flaring maxi skirt or slimline jeans that you can tuck inside.
Techy sneakers
Sneakers never take a season off, except this autumn has edged out the previous season’s beloved sleek suede trainer, for something more sporty. Techy sneakers were spotted at Diesel, where silver runners were teamed with bleached skinny jeans, and Toga, where bulky track soles provided contrast at the end of whipsmart grey trousers.
Shop from the hiking, walking or trail running of brands like Salomon (£160, salomon.com), where the sneakers come with features such as ‘tailored lug patterns’ and a ‘waterproof membrane’ to prove their outdoorsiness. Adidas fans should try their Terrex Skychaser (£100, adidas.co.uk).
I also rate Puma’s Mostro XC (£150, puma.com), which blends “the sleek sprinting spikes of the ‘60s and the surfing shoes of the ‘80s”, with a super-grippy sole and waterproof upper.
Or for something with a little bit more of a city feel, try New Balance’s 1906R (£140, arket.com).
As we saw on the catwalks, the key is not to limit your sneaker to sportswear. Wear them with a puddle-hemmed pair of trousers, or a pleated skirt that brushes the mid-calf.
All hail Mary Janes
The MaryJane is similarly indefatigable, renewing itself season after season. The style was once referred to as “an urban shoe myth” by Carrie Bradshaw, speaking about the hallowed Manolo Blahnik Mary Jane. And for 2025, at Dries Van Noten, Mary Janes came with a wedged heel and a polished T-bar.
Givenchy, meanwhile, flattened the silhouette with ballerina Mary Janes, squaring off the toes and giving the band across the foot a logoed finish.
Seek out styles with something a bit different, either a slingback fastening (see Tory Burch (£330, toryburch.com), a chunkier-than-average heel like COS‘s iteration (£169, cos.com), an ombré leather style as seen at Vagabond (£140, vagabond.com), or one with studs and a thick strap a la Jil Sander’s investment Mary Janes (£1170, jilsander.com).
