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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Andy North

Seal spotting and majestic waterfalls: how to see the wild side of the Isle of Man

The Isle of Man is known for its rare beauty. Nestled off the south coast of Scotland, in the Irish Sea between Great Britain and Ireland, it’s the only island to be recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Many people flock here for its annual TT Races which are taking place this week. 2023 visitor levels reached over 43,000, roughly half the island’s actual population. Though you shouldn’t miss going off the beaten track and exploring its varied landscape.

Its rich culture and varied walking trails have made it a go-to for people seeking a break from the hustle and bustle of city life.

If you pick up a car it’s easy to see the island’s wild side in a few days.

From bustling harbours where seals nap on the cobblestones, to stunning natural waterfalls hidden away down country roads, here’s how to see a different side of the island.

Glen Auldyn Forest and Pools

This beautiful glen is soon to be home to a £38m temperate rainforest restoration scheme but even now it’s a bucolic spot. The pools at its top are popular among wild swimmers, who appreciate the stunning views and shiveringly clear water. There is one at the top of the footpath and another below the ruined mine workers’ cottage on the left (the latter a steep and loose scramble that should only be attempted in dry weather).

There are only a few parking spots along the approach to the glen so take the first one you see and walk in to the track that leads up the valley.

Bishopscourt Glen

Formerly part of a private garden belonging to Bishopscourt Palace, the one-time home of the Bishop of Sodor and Man, this five-hectare stretch of waterside woodland includes a spectacular lake fringed with flowers and shrubs.

(Isle of Man tourism)

Hidden from view, near the top of the glen, is a bridge and a dead-end path to a small cave, the Cave of the Winds. Here, a carved stone seat is believed to have been used for meditation or prayer for hundreds of years. Park on the side of the road in a lay-by.

The Stack

This wild rocky cove, just outside Peel, is home to a magical tidal pool that has an underwater archway when the tide is in. There is also a cave at one side of it. The easiest way to reach this beach is to park at the end of Marine Parade and follow the coastal footpath (Raad Ny Foillan) northwards past Traie Fogog beach. Once the path turns sharply round the corner, continue for 50m then drop down to the sea to spot this tiny cove. It’s possible to reach it if you scramble down on the right side of the cove and across the sandstone cave.

Spooyt Vane Waterfall

Beside a tranquil hermitage, surrounded by forest, this beautiful waterfall is a serene spot for a dip, imbued with the sense that people have been bathing here for centuries. Park at Glen Mooar beach car park, walk back up the lane to the main road. Cross this, then follow the footpath up the glen for 20 minutes, until you see some steps leading down to this high waterfall.

(Isle of Man Tourism)

If you have time, don’t get back in your car immediately but head south along Glen Mooar Beach, round the first headland and on past some lovely coves until you see another headland jutting out. Here, you’ll find Ooig Mooar cave. This takes you from one beach to the next, via a hole at its far end, though this should only be attempted up to three hours before or after low tide.

King’s Forest

This rocky outcrop, half way up Greeba Mountain and with views right across the valley, is a very special place. In the past, it was known as the Nest of the Great Raven, or Edd Feeagh Vooar. If you sit for a while, you’ll be able to watch the magnificent birds that live and nest up here on the cliffs as they soar and practise their inverted stunt flying.

Park at the Greeba S-Bends lay-by on the A1 Peel to Douglas Road and look for the white gate entrance to the forest nearby. Head up the track until you pass a large double gate on the right side of the track. Start heading off the track on the left and onto the rough footpath north-west that goes uphill with the electricity poles. This path will wind its way up to the plateau and the rocky outcrop.

Groudle Glen

If industrial heritage is your thing, you’ll want to visit Groundle Glen viaduct, which was built in 1894 to carry the electric tram up to Laxey and beyond. From the bottom of the glen you can marvel at its towering arches and stroll to a waterwheel, waterfalls and pools further down the river.

(Photo by Ilana Reimer on Unsplash)

Park at the top of the road near where the bridge crosses it and you will find the footpath that descends into the glen and down to the river below. Further downhill still is Groundle Glen beach, a lovely spot for a sunrise swim with diving and swimming spots on both sides of the bay. After a dip, wander along the old train tracks to find the lovely Sea Lion Rocks Café.

Dhoon Beach

North of Laxey, steep-sided Dhoon Glen, with its high waterfalls, is home to a population of primitive wild goats. They can sometimes be seen eating seaweed on the secluded beach at the foot of the glen, though human visitors are likely to be more interested in exploring the caves and underwater archways that ring the clear waters of this scenic bay. A wonderful beach with giant flat pebbles, in its far north corner you’ll find a beautiful, sculpted cave. From the car park at Dhoon Glen Halt, follow the signposted footpath that follows the river down to beach. Head north along the beach at mid-tide to find the cave.

Wild Guide Isle of Man by Andy North is out now (£18.99, wildthingspublishing.com). Readers can buy the book with 20 per cent off and free P&P with the code LondonStandard

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