At just over three hours from Bristol, the West Arms was the perfect destination for a weekend getaway.
Far enough that you feel you’ve actually gotten away for a break, but close enough to not be fretting too much over the Sunday drive back, the hotel is in the small North Wales village of Llanarmon Dryffyn-Ceiriog.
Set in the heart of the stunningly picturesque Ceiriog Valley, it was easy to wonder where the sat nav was taking us as we wound our way through single-track country lanes and phone signal dropped out.
Yet on arrival, it did not take long to realise why the family-run hotel has a growing reputation in the area, particularly among food lovers.
The building, originally a 15-century inn, underwent a refurbishment last year, which has helped to add a homely feel to the rustic charm of wooden beams and roaring fireplaces.
Our bedroom was uniquely decorated with paintings from a local artist which really helped to give the stay a personal feel, along with a welcome card and a small sample of cakes that the hotel had to offer.
We arrived on a Saturday evening and, having already eaten, opted to head down to one of the hotel’s two bars for a drink – although it was difficult not to feel jealous when seeing some of the food that diners were eating.
There were numerous locals in the bar, which gave a real sense of community, especially with some of them conversing in Welsh.
Unlike in some rural places, this was not off-putting to an outsider, either, and when one man stood at the bar discovered I was staying for Sunday lunch, he immediately recommended the lamb, going on to admit he had a slight bias because they were his own organic lamb from just two fields over!
A wide range of local beers and gins helped to add to the sense that, by staying at the hotel, your money went into the community and helped benefit the area.
Breakfast the following morning was a superb spread, with guests having the option of both a continental option and a large cooked menu.
With a stunning view from the garden, numerous walks in the area, and the added lure of playing with the hotel’s two friendly dogs, it was tempting to spend the morning in Llanarmon Dryffyn-Ceiriog, but instead we opted for a visit to the imposing Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfall, which was about 30 minutes’ drive away.
The waterfall, one of the tallest in Wales, is clearly a draw for tourists in the area, with the West Arms even providing us with easy-to-follow directions to get us there. Thanks to a handy guide book in our hotel room, which felt the perfect touch for holidaymakers, it was also possible to see what else North Wales had to offer.
After a morning spent climbing hills to the top of the waterfall, we opted to return to the West Arms for Sunday lunch and had a meal that made me regret not sampling the a la carte menu on Saturday night.
There was both traditional Sunday lunch and more experimental options on the menu, and I opted for the mozzarella and tomato salad, which ended up being the perfect way to start – both full of flavour and light enough to make me look forward to what was coming next, which was an impressive portion of roast beef. The meat was tender and flavourful, and the gravy was genuinely some of the best I have had.
The farmer I met at the bar on Saturday night will be glad to know that my companion had the lamb and, having tried a piece, I can see why he was keen to recommend it. It was packed full of flavour, but perhaps to the extent that the large portion that was served would have made things slightly overwhelming.
Finally, I opted for a melt-in-the-mouth strawberry cheesecake for desert. With a chocolatey biscuit base, it had the potential to be a little too sweet, but the fresh strawberries and well-judged portion size made it a fantastic way to end what was a great meal.
After this, we departed, but having already resolved to visit for a full weekend.
To find out more about the West Arms, and their 50 per cent discount for guests staying a second night in midweek, visit here
