A typically upbeat colour palette from Paul Smith, featuring shades of pink from pale ice cream to vivid fluoro contrasted with egg-yolk yellow. The collection was punctuated with a psychedelic magic-mushroom motif (or was it a toadstool? Nature fans can fight it out) on sweatshirts and embroidered on a chambray shirt. A message of peace and love – and no formal tailoring Photograph: PR
Shown in a clever presentation format where cameras were trained on the model and projected on to five plasma screens behind him so that the details of each outfit in turn could be zoomed in on. The perfect way to showcase a collection with fabric mash-ups, such as floral camouflage jacquard and traditional sportswear textiles, and easy-to-miss details such as appliqué grosgrain stripes and customised Clarks desert boots Photograph: Katsuhide Morimoto /PR
The summer wardrobe of the Hermès man is a lesson in luxury and understated beauty. A navy suede sweatshirt had a relief print of a horse and some of the lambskin jackets were hand-brushed with stones to be turned into suede – that doesn't come cheap.The cotton tunic T-shirt has been a constant this fashion week, shown at Alexander Wang, Valentino and Lanvin. It's hospital gown shape is improved here by the ocean colour, crumpled finish and shoulder fastening, something to consider when working it into an existing wardrobe. The jumpsuit, a bonafide sub-trend now, also made an appearance in a grey crepe cotton Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images Europe
Depending on your point of view you might be scandalised by the short shorts or see it as a styling emphasis put on jackets (blouson biker and roomy blazer) by drawing attention to them (not to mention the pulled-up socks). The finale underlined the newest dress code to emerge this season: 'cocktail casual'. Here the tux was replaced with metallic stripe vests Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho
'Invisible dandyism' is how Jean Touitou, founder of APC referred to his brand's 'boring' aesethic during his presentation (easily the most entertaining and enlightening of fashion week). He explained his inspirations as Bret Easton Ellis's Less Than Zero, 80s junkies and rock bands, anti-casual, and being in the 80s looking back at the 50s. The result of the latter was a linen and lambskin varsity jacket. A T-shirt collection with M/M Paris played with the meaning of APC - either "A Perfect Chick' or 'Another Pure Cheeseburger" Photograph: PR
To a soundtrack of the Pet Shop Boys' 'Domino Dancing' the models made their way around and then through a mirrored maze in the centre of the square catwalk. The domino theme carried through into the clothes in the panelled and square-motif prints, inspired by the work of artist John Chamberlain. The more minimal pieces looked slicker and less tricksy Photograph: Petroff/Dufour/French Select
A uniform for rockstars and teenage rebels, comprising Teddyboy blazers, leather jackets, varsity jackets, spray on trousers and winklepicker boots. This was a slightly brighter collection than the previous two, the invitation booklet contained the colourful artwork of Matt Connors – possibly the influence. Parallels were drawn by observers with the 80s cult film The Lost Boys, particularly in the open-mouthed, blood-dripping fangs design on the back of one jacket and there was a hint of the Thin White Duke. Destination rebellion remains on course for Hedi Silmane Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho
Alexandre Mattiussi – Ami to his friends – is going from strength to strength. This season the scenerio was an airport arrivals hall complete with baggage carousel and luggage trolleys. It is easy to see why these clothes are so popular with the customer – the models looked like they were wearing their own clothes and it wasn't a stretch to imagine these guys really were friends returning from a summer holiday. On paper, tropical print, stripes, camouflage and checks sounds terrifying, on the catwalk, or rather in the baggage hall and most importantly in real life, it definitely works Photograph: PR
Thom Browne always has a story to tell with a liberal dose of theatrics. We joined his troop of models, including two guards in mirrored sentry boxes, in the grand setting of the courtyard of Ecole Militaire. The troop wore variations of military and naval regalia for a flag-hoisting ceremony for a fallen solider – whose empty shoes containing a single white rose, stood on the last mirrored platform. It veered from fashion to costume Photograph: FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP
