The article on Jamie Oliver’s paella (5 October) refers to a “fractured Spain”. There is division even over the origins of the word itself. Some say it is from the Latin for “pan” and others that it is from the Arabic for “leftovers”. It served a function beyond mere food when Spain was more seriously “fractured” during the time ofthe country’s expulsion of the Moors and Jews in the 16th century. During the Spanish Inquisition, village feasts were organised where great quantities of paella were served. (still a tradition in rural Spain). What had been a simple concoction of rice and vegetables with rabbit or chicken became a culinary shibboleth. Mussels and other shellfish plus sliced sausages of pork were added to the dish. Those who would not eat were carefully observed. Moors trying to hide their identities would not eat a meal containing pork and Jews rejected the shellfish, and so they were exposed to persecution and eviction.
Ronald Fairfax
Hull
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