Nicolas Ghesquière's top five collections for Balenciaga

SS03 surf scuba collection
Surf style has been a fashion perennial over the past 10 years. Ghesquière started all that with this neoprene-heavy collection Photograph: Cavan Pawson/Evening Standar/REX/Rex Features

SS07 robot legs
These gold leggings gave the model wearing them a bit of a C-3PO look. It is testament to Ghesquière's influence that they became an It item of the season Photograph: Rex Features

SS08 floral pannier dresses
Ghesquière's strength is melding references to make something modern. Here, the construction of Las Meninas dresses was mixed with power shoulders Photograph: Rex Features

AW12 Bladerunner collection
Ghesquière elaborated on the Bladerunner-worthy skyscraper setting for this show with sci-fi sweatshirts. The result? Another power-player favourite Photograph: Getty

SS13 last collection Cristóbal Balenciaga was never far from Ghesquière's moodboard. His last collection had a subtext of brand history – flamenco was finessed with a monochrome palette Photograph: Victor Virgile/Getty