April 07--When Phil Vettel first reviewed Intro, Lettuce Entertain You's ambitious rotating-chef restaurant concept in Lincoln Park, he parted with this remark about its inaugural chef, C.J. Jacobson: "Will he return to LA, or will he have made enough friends that he'll open a restaurant in Chicago? I suspect that if and when Jacobson departs, he'll leave some sad faces behind."
Little did Vettel know, at the time, that Jacobson had a secret. Before the Californian ever stepped foot in Intro's kitchen, he'd already signed up to continue working with Lettuce Entertain You. "I had to be all coy for six months," admits Jacobson. "I knew the entire time."
Jacobson is now ready to launch his first restaurant, Ema, in River North's Hyatt Place hotel. The restaurant (pronounced ee-ma) means mother in Hebrew and will serve Mediterranean cuisine infused with the chef's California style of cooking. For Jacobson, that style means embracing "straightforward and clean" flavors of the food, while maintaining strong relationships with farmers here and in his home state. "You aren't going to leave feeling disgusting," says Jacobson.
The restaurant won't focus on a specific area of the Mediterranean, but Jacobson plans to draw on his own experience exploring the region. The menu is still being finalized, but expect standards like hummus and a selection of olives. Jacobson couldn't wait to show off the bread, which he likens to a cross between naan and pita. After being cooked, it's brushed with a clarified fried-onion butter.
While the menu will be dominated by small plates, there also will be five or so entrees, many of which will be cooked in a large rotisserie. Potential entrees include chicken, leg of lamb, and a daily fish special.
Considering its Mediterranean theme, wine will play an important role, but expect offerings from all over the world. "We're not sticking with just Mediterranean wine," says Jacobson. "Just as long as it fits the food."
Along with the main restaurant, Ema will have a fast-casual counter for customers to buy grab-and-go salads, house-made frozen Greek yogurt and rotisserie chicken.
Jacobson wouldn't reveal the exact opening date, though he expects it to be in late June. "It's coming up pretty fast," says Jacobson. "For so long, it seems far away, and then suddenly it's in your lap."
Ema, Hyatt Place at 74 W. Illinois St.
nkindelsperger@tribpub.com
Twitter @nickdk
