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Tribune News Service
Lifestyle
Jill Warren Lucas

Le Creuset's classic French recipes are more approachable than you think

To a girl growing up in western North Carolina, gougeres might have sounded like something made in a fit of boredom with a sharp stick and winter gleanings.

Sheri Castle's culinary horizons have broadened considerably since her youth in Watauga County. The Chapel Hill, N.C., writer and recipe developer is the author of more than a dozen cookbooks, several of them ghostwritten for well-known clients.

In one of her latest projects, she served as writer and recipe editor of "Le Creuset: A Collection of Recipes from Our French Table."

The collection marks the first cookbook from the renowned maker of prestige cookware's U.S. subsidiary (pronounced "luh cru-say"), which is based in Charleston, S.C. Handsomely illustrated with images from award-winning food photographer Peter Frank Edwards, it includes 80 classic French recipes created by Le Creuset's culinary team to appeal to an American audience.

Castle promises that a platter of garlic and herb gougeres _ savory cheese puff nibbles _ will dazzle the audience you gather with at festivities this time of year.

"If all you did for a party is hand someone a few gougeres and a glass of champagne," she says, "you'd make a magnificent party."

The hors d'oeuvres look hard to make but aren't, she adds. They can be served warm or at room temperature, and even can be prepped in advance and baked at the last minute. Master this and a few other clearly explained techniques, and you'll be well on your way to transforming your Carolina kitchen into a Paris salon.

Castle came to Le Creuset's attention two years ago when she served as a culinary producer in a series of 20 how-to videos featuring Vivian Howard of Kinston's Chef & the Farmer restaurant. In the videos, Howard demonstrates everything from searing and sauteeing to braising and roasting. Le Creuset is a sponsor of her award-winning PBS series, "A Chef's Life."

Kristin Mancia, director of marketing for Le Creuset's U.S. operations, says Castle was key to the book's mission to demystify French cooking, which has an intimidating reputation for being slavishly technique-driven and dependent on rich ingredients.

"She was able to understand the nuance of telling a great food story, while also imparting valuable knowledge about the tools and ingredients needed to achieve great results," says Mancia, a Winston-Salem native who graduated from UNC-Chapel Hill in 2001 and earned her MBA from Duke in 2010.

Mancia said the goal is for the book to feel like a "kitchen companion" with an empowering voice, one focused more on solid technique than a product sales pitch. Castle achieves this by providing engaging history and insights on dozens of dishes. She also offers informative breakouts that spotlight techniques or ingredients some home cooks may not be familiar with. You might need a restorative nip of cognac after reading her sensual take on the luxurious delights of 82 percent butterfat French butter.

If you're looking for something special to make, Castle considers the boeuf bourguignon a true standout, though it's equally appropriate for formal or casual dining.

"It's one of those dishes people think of when they think about great French food," she says. "When it's made well, it's just astonishing."

While she wasn't responsible for testing any of the recipes, this was among the first recipes in the book Castle made for pleasure in her own kitchen.

"It's nice and homey, as it should be," she says. "And it's best made ahead, which makes it great for entertaining. There's nothing worse that a host who misses their own party because they're stuck in the kitchen."

A great dinner deserves a great dessert, and this book offers several tempting options. If you're not confident about trying a chocolate souffle, Castle says the chocolate pots de creme are well within reach of most home cooks.

"They are intensely chocolatey but not overly sweet," says Castle. "Your own pot de creme can't be beat. People are charmed and touched by having their own individual serving."

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