Memorial Day kicked off the grilling season for many people, but Kenyon is ready to make the argument that you could be enjoying grilled meals year-round, regardless of weather. The company makes high quality electric grills, that can be used indoors — without the worry of smoke. Can electric really compete with charcoal, wood or gas? To find out, the company sent me their Frontier portable electric grill, equipped with new IntelliKEN Touch controls.
First Impressions
It’s immediately clear that the Kenyon Frontier is a premium product. It’s also clearly not meant as a high-end version of something like a George Foreman Grill, or the Cuisinart Griddler in my kitchen, despite all carrying the “electric grill” label. Those are mass produced multi-function kitchen appliances that are considerably smaller and aimed at pressing a sandwich or quickly cooking a steak.
The Frontier is a replacement for an outdoor gas, charcoal or wood grill. That’s a much more ambitious scope. It’s portable. It can be used on a countertop, although it takes up a fair bit of space (21 x 12-inches and over 7-inches tall with the lid), but it can also be used outdoors. It’s also beautifully designed and built to last, with rust-resistant marine grade stainless steel construction. And my review unit was equipped with the company’s IntelliKEN touch controls, which add a high-tech look.
Everything is designed to be taken apart when needed — the grill comes out for cleaning, the drip tray is removable and the lid can be removed for easy cleaning. Kenyon even includes a bottle of stainless steel cleaner and polish in the box.
IntelliKEN Touch Controls
My review unit was equipped with Kenyon’s new IntelliKEN touch controls. A black, waterproof ceramic glass surface at the side of the grill is touch-enabled and offers considerably more precise control over the Frontier’s operation than standard controls.
Swipe the power setting to choose from 16 different heat levels, or adjust by temperature (the grill can maintain temperatures between 150˚F and 550˚F). You can switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius. You can also set a timer, and lock the temperature to prevent accidental changes from a stray swipe.
Kenyon even has an Alexa Skill for smart speakers that can help you out with hands-free cooking and grill use advice, as well as recipes.
No Smoke, Great Results with Well-Defined Grill Marks
The Frontier grill heats up quickly — in the neighborhood of 6 or 7 minutes to hit 500˚F. And the advanced design of this grill quickly pays off.
The removable grill surface physically contacts the hidden heating element. There is no gap between the grill and that element, so the entire grill surface is an even temperature. That grill is treated with a “medical grade” (PFOA-free) non-stick coating. Combined with the precision temperature and the ability to hit up to 550˚F, the Frontier produced results that never stuck, and had impressive grill marks. Even caramelizing pineapple rings that had been coated in brown sugar…
As claimed, there was no smoke. Some steam (depending on the food), but no visible smoke. The key to this is a drip tray that you fill with a cup of water prior to grilling. Drippings are channeled by the grill so they drop into the tray instead of hitting the heating element, and the liquid prevents fat from igniting. At the same time, the liquid helps to keep cooking foods moist, and adds flavor.
Over the course of several weeks I used the Kenyon Frontier to grill a variety of foods including chicken breasts, beef tenderloin, vegetables and pineapple rings. Everything turned out perfectly, with visually appealing grill marks. Meat was moist and not dried out. Flipping anything on the grill was a joy, thanks to the nonstick surface.
Indoor-Friendly and So Easy to Clean
One of the big downsides to grilling is the aftermath, particularly the cleanup. But the Kenyon Frontier is by far the most convenient grill I have ever used when it comes to cleanup. When finished cooking, it’s recommended you give the grill a few passes with wet paper towels. After that, both the drip tray and grill are removable and easily washed. You can even throw the grill in the dishwasher (I tried it and that worked perfectly). Heck, you can even remove the lid and put that in the dishwasher.
After multiple uses, the Kenyon remain pristine looking, including the grill itself — which makes it much easier to grill soft foods like vegetables without them sticking and falling apart. And cleanup was literally a two minute job, if that.
If you accidentally leave the grill on, it’s programmed to automatically shut down in 60 or 90 minutes (the timing depends on temperature setting). I have to admit I was a little concerned about using a high powered appliance that hits 550˚F on my countertops. However, the Frontier is designed for this. The heating element is located near the top of the grill, and the drip pan (that should always have at least a cup of liquid in it) is located at the bottom, providing additional insulation against extreme heat. There are short legs that provide just enough space beneath the grill to slide a thermometer beneath it and the highest reading I registered was 95˚F — so no worries on that front.
In fact a Kenyon rep assured me the grill can be safely used on a picnic table covered with a plastic tablecloth…
The lid can get hot to the touch, but it’s insulated to prevent burns.
Downsides?
There is a lot to like about this electric grill, with the ability to cook indoors, precision temperature control and ease of cleanup standing out. However, there are a few downsides compared to a traditional outdoor grill that uses charcoal, wood or gas for fuel.
The biggest one for me is the flip side to being able to cook indoors: no smoke. As BBQ enthusiasts will tell you, smoke is a key factor for flavoring the food cooked on a grill. Different varieties of wood can be used for different flavors — I’m partial to Hickory and Mesquite. With a smokeless Kenyon electric grill, there is no smoke. The company portrays this as a benefit, since smoke and cooking meat over an open flame has been linked to an increased cancer risk due to the formation of PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons). To boost the flavor in cooked foods, Kenyon suggests replacing the water in the drip tray with other fluids such as wine. And this does help — as does being a little more aggressive with spices and marinades. The meat I grilled on the Kenyon was flavorful, but it did lack that smoke taste that I associate with grilling…
The other downside I ran into compared to my own grills is the constant temperature of the Frontier. Everything cooks at the same temperature. There’s no provision for moving charcoal to one side to create a cooler side of the grill. But there is an option to deal with that issue, as you’ll see in the next section.
Other Kenyon Options
I found the Frontier grill worked very well, but for a family of five it was a little on the small side. If you want the functionality of a Kenyon grill in a bigger form factor, the company offers the Big American Grill with 465 square inches of cooking space plus the flexibility to have different sections of the grill cook at different temperatures. Kenyon also offers built-in options that can be added to a kitchen counter. And the company sells accessories like smooth griddle tops for more cooking flexibility.
If the $1250 price of the Frontier grill is too hefty, Kenyon will sell you the same grill but with standard controls for $895.
Recommendation
The price is a little steep, but this is the most effective electric grill I’ve ever used, it’s visually attractive, very well designed and solidly constructed.
I’m not going to give up my other “outdoor” grills, regardless of the potential cancer risk from flames and smoke. But the Kenyon Frontier electric grill is a welcome addition to those traditional options. There is a lot to be said for being able to grill effectively indoors, with little prep time and incredibly easy cleanup. Especially in the winter, or on rainy days. And if you live in an apartment or condo where fire-based grills are not permitted, the Kenyon Frontier means you can still grill. It’s also portable enough to be carried out to a patio or balcony (so long as there’s a nearby electrical outlet) so you can enjoy the experience of grilling outdoors. If you have the budget for it, the Kenyon Frontier is a great option to have in your grilling repertoire.
Disclosure: Kenyon provided a Frontier grill for evaluation but had no input into this review.
