Everyone is talking about EVOO – or extra virgin olive oil. People are doing daily shots of the golden-green liquid, bringing it to dinner parties in lieu of wine and the UK’s first ever EVOO bar is opening up on Portobello Road in London mid-July. There, at the ‘Olive Oil Clubhouse’, by Citizens of Soil, guests can enjoy tastings, olive oil cocktails, salty snacks and all things EVOO.
The singer, Dua Lipa, recently revealed her favourite way to use it – drizzled on vanilla ice cream with a pinch of sea salt. The unconventional dessert went viral with everyone giving it a go for themselves and posting their verdicts online.
The attention for EVOO is justified. It is so much more than just a kitchen staple – it’s a powerhouse of flavour and health benefits. But it can be confusing to know what to buy, how to store it and how to use it.
As a half-Italian, someone who uses EVOO on a daily basis and has sampled many I’ve created the ultimate guide to ‘liquid gold’, from its incredible health benefits, to how long it lasts and whether or not you can actually cook with it – plus my top three picks.
What does 'extra virgin' mean?
Extra virgin is the highest quality grade of olive oil – and it really matters for both flavour and health benefits.
It’s extracted from just-harvested olives and doesn’t use any heat or chemicals as they would both degrade the flavour and strip the oil of its nutrients. It’s why you’ll often see 'cold-pressed' on the bottle, though, to qualify as extra virgin it must be cold-pressed.
It must also have an acidity of less than 0.8 per cent and no defects in taste or smell such as rubbery, musty or rancid notes.
Extra virgin olive oil, or EVOO, has a distinct aroma and flavour which can differ depending on the type of olive used and when it’s picked but in general, it’s grassy, fruity and peppery.
What are the health benefits of EVOO?
Nutritionally, extra virgin olive oil is far superior to refined or 'light' olive oils. It contains high levels of oleic acid (a heart-healthy monounsaturated fat), vitamin E, and polyphenols.
Polyphenols are healthy plant chemicals which act as antioxidants. They’ve been shown to reduce inflammation, improve cholesterol levels, feed our gut microbiome and protect against heart disease and cognitive decline.
EVOO also contains oleocanthal – it gives it that peppery kick at the back of the throat – which has similar anti-inflammatory properties to ibuprofen. As chronic inflammation can underpin many diseases such as cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative diseases (such as Alzeimer’s), cancer and more, reducing it is a good idea.
In contrast, refined olive oils are processed with heat and chemicals, which strips them of not only their flavour, but also beneficial compounds such as polyphenols and vitamins.
Does more expensive mean better quality?
Usually, yes. Because producing extra virgin olive oil is a delicate and time-consuming process, that effort is reflected in the price. It’s cheaper to produce refined olive oils and so they cost less.
For good-quality extra virgin olive oil in the UK, expect to pay around £12 to 25 per litre. Avoid anything under the £10 mark as it’s probably a blend (more on this below), past its best, or not really extra virgin.
Should you buy a blend or a 'single estate'?
A sign of quality in EVOO is it being 'single estate' aka from one place. Many supermarket EVOOs use a blend of olive oil from different countries whereas a 'single estate' oil will be grown, harvested, pressed, and bottled in the same place, meaning quality control is much higher.
Single estate EVOO is often much fresher – which is important for taste and nutrients – with less delay between picking and pressing. The very best EVOO will be pressed as soon as possible after it’s picked.
To identify single estate EVOO, read the label. It should clearly list where it’s from, detailing the farm, not just the country. The producers may have used a blend of different olives on their farm, but this is different to mixing olives from different countries. It should also show a 'harvest date', not a 'best before', which will tell you how fresh it is.
Does the colour denote quality?
No! This is a misconception. While a gorgeous golden-green can look beautiful, it doesn’t mean it’s any better quality that a more muted shade. In fact, the colour of extra virgin olive oil is influenced by factors like the olive variety, harvest time, and even the filtration method – not quality alone.
In professional EVOO tastings, the oil is tried from blue cups so that the judges aren’t swayed by a pretty colour.
Where should you store it?
Heat and light can degrade the quality of EVOO, so it should always be kept in a dark, cool place like a cupboard. Buying it in an opaque bottle, instead if a transparent one is also a good idea.
How long does it last?
Not as long as most people think! Unopened EVOO can last 18 to 24 months from the harvest date, but once opened it should be used within six to 12 weeks for optimal flavour and health benefits. As well as heat and light affecting the quality, so does oxygen – so make sure your oil is tightly sealed between uses.
Can you cook with EVOO?
Yes! It’s a misconception that you can’t. People will talk about the 'smoke point' – the temperature at which an oil starts to visibly smoke and break down – but this isn’t a problem for home cooks. EVOO’s smoke point is 190 to 210°C (normally the better quality, the higher the smoke point) and most everyday cooking – sautéing, roasting, shallow frying – stays well below 200°C, so high-quality EVOO is safe to cook with.
How much should we consume daily for optimal health?
Consuming one to two tablespoons a day of EVOO is consistently linked to 15 to 20 per cent slower mortality risk, especially from cardiovascular and neurodegenerative causes.
Benefits level off around 20 to 25 g per day; higher intakes do not seem to add much extra protection.
The three best olive oils
Fattoria La Vialla, Extra Virigin Olive Oil
This is my all-time favourite EVOO and the work-horse of my kitchen. I use it every day, for everything – on salads, drizzled on soups, in my cooking and even on ice cream. It’s from a family-run biodynamic farm in Tuscany which prioritises the utmost quality in everything it produces.
Everything it produces is delicious and the 2024 ‘La Vialla’ EVOO is no exception. It’s got a spicy, peppery kick – signifying its high polyphenol content – and a pleasing grassy, fresh aroma. If you want reliable, high-quality EVOO, this place always delivers. lavialla.com
Giù Giù Organic E.V.O. Oil Cerasuola
EVOO made from Cerasuola olives, mainly in northwestern Sicily, like this one is addictively bitter with good spiciness and hints of tomato, artichoke and thistle. For anyone who likes a bold-tasting EVOO, this one is for you. prezzemoloevitale.co.uk
Odysea Extra Virgin Olive Oil From Crete
I like all of Odysea’s EVOO but this one, from Chania in Crete – home to what’s thought to bee the oldest olive tree in the world – is particularly tasty. It’s got a delicate, grassy smell and gentle peppery aftertaste so it’s great for people who like less of a strong-tasting oil. odysea.com
