Bread-and-butter pudding is a zero-waste recipe that has stood the test of time, not least because it’s so practical, comforting and thrifty. Like the best no-waste dishes, it transforms something worthless such as old bread into something truly indulgent. This version is based on Raymond Blanc’s classic, with a few of my own simplifications and adaptations over the years.
Wholemeal sourdough bread-and-butter pudding with prunes
Most traditional bread-and-butter pudding recipes call for white bread, caster sugar and extra egg yolks, but, unless you’ve got a clear plan for those egg whites, they can very easily end up being wasted. Whole eggs work beautifully in custard, and make very little difference to the richness of the finished pudding; I simply use a touch less milk to compensate.
Sourdough, especially a wholemeal one, works brilliantly here, too. It’s sturdier, more flavourful and, in my experience, better at soaking up custard than soft white bread, which sometimes turns a little slimy. Sourdough is heavier, though, so I tend to use a bit more of it, and I like to press the slices down with a weight before cooking, so helping the bread absorb the custard. Dark brown sugar adds serious depth of flavour, as does the addition of a sneaky splash of brandy, whisky or vermouth.
Serves 4
150ml double cream, plus extra to serve
300ml whole milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 medium eggs
90g brown sugar – I used dark muscovado
1 pinch sea salt
20g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
50g dried fruit (sultanas, prunes, apricots)
20ml brandy, or whisky or marsala (optional)
200g sliced day-old sourdough, or any other bread you have
Heat the cream, milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan until steaming, then take off the heat before the mix comes to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs, brown sugar and salt, then slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking constantly to make a smooth custard.
Butter the insides of a small or medium baking dish, then pour in a little custard to cover the base. Scatter half the dried fruit all over the top, then layer in the sourdough slices, overlapping them slightly and tucking the remaining fruit under the bread as you go (this helps ensure the fruit won’t burn during baking). Pour all the rest of the custard over the top, then place a second baking dish directly on top of the pudding and gently press down on it to compress the bread. Place a heavy weight on top (I use a stone mortar) and leave to rest for about 20 minutes, so the custard soaks into the bread.
Heat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5. Lift off the weight and second baking dish, dot the surface of the pudding with the butter and bake for about 30 minutes, until the custard is just set and the top is deeply golden. Sprinkle brown sugar and cinnamon over the top of the pudding, then grill briefly on high until it is a deep golden brown all over. Serve warm with lots of extra cream.
