I love South America and everything it has to offer. I enjoy its laid-back culture, its excellent cuisine, the rhythm of its music and a general sense of non-urgency about life.
For me, they seem to strike the perfect balance between life, work and fun.
In Santiago, one of the largest cities in the Americas and home to over 40 per cent of Chile's population, you can feel the bustle and ease in equal measure.
Spend your days wandering through the different barrios boasting an array of architectural styles from 19th-century neoclassical and Art Deco to Gothic Revival, rest those tired legs at hidden-away independent coffee shops, and eat empanadas anywhere from a mercado to a hole-in-the-wall eatery — you won't regret it.
Read more: It's the year of noctourism — I travelled to Chile's Atacama for the ultimate dark skies experience
What to see
San Cristobal Hill
Santiago's cityscape is defined by rolling hills and the Mapocho River, which flows alongside many of the parks.
At 800 meters above sea level, San Cristobal Hill is the third-highest point in the capital. At the top is an observatory, a 22-meter-tall statue of the Virgin Mary, an amphitheatre and a chapel. It's a cool hangout spot with spectacular panoramic views of the city.
The kid-friendly areas WHICH ARE THESE? are popular with locals who come in droves at weekends. There are various options to reach the summit: walk 45 minutes, take a funicular from the north end or a cable car from the northeast.
Barrio Bellavista
Around the funicular station is the lively barrio of Bellavista, home to graffiti-clad buildings and all-night bars, restaurants and nightclubs.
Nestled within its leafy streets is La Chascona, the house of the celebrated Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda. Built over several levels, the home showcases Neruda's passion for art, including works by Mexican artist Diego Rivera, his love for socialising with literary figures, and life with his secret lover, Matilde Urrutia.
Plaza de Armas
At the centre of most Spanish-speaking towns, cities, or villages is a Plaza de Armas, also called the town square. It's where important religious and administrative buildings are, though they’re frequented by the city's laid-back population, who sit on the benches scattered around a fountain in its centre.
In Santiago, the Metropolitan Church, the post office and the National History Museum skirt around the edges. Just around the corner from Plaza de Armas is the Chilean Museum of Pre-Colombian Art and Casa Colorada, home to the Museum of Santiago.
Lastarria
Painters, jewellery makers, street performers and budding clothing designers occupy the cobblestone streets of this boho neighbourhood.
The leafy barrio is home to the Gabriela Mistral Cultural Centre, the Museum of Visual Arts, and Santa Lucia Hill. The 65,300 square metre park is full of ornate façades, stairways and the stunning Neptune Fountain, dedicated to the Roman God of the sea.
Barrio Italia
If there is one barrio you must head to on the weekend, it's this. Once home to Italian immigrants, today the single-storey buildings that line Avenida Italia are a melting pot of cuisines from across the world.
Vintage warehouses, independent designers and local artisans from across the country all showcase their work in large communal market spaces. The place truly comes to life in the evening when shoppers descend on its narrow, colourful streets.
Where to eat and drink
El Galeon, Mercado Central
In amongst the hubbub of shoppers bargaining their way through fish and vegetables is El Galeon, somewhat of an institution in Santiago. Run by the same family since 1935, this restaurant in Mercado Central serves the freshest seafood and fish dishes.
Pick from an extensive selection of crab options and down that with a large serving of chilled Cristal (local beer).
Emporio Zunino, Mercado Central
When in Chile, do as the Chileans do and try empanadas everywhere. Emporio Zunino, just outside the Central Market, has been baking them since 1930. The traditional Pino (beef) empanada comes stuffed with minced beef, onions, olives and egg. Cheese options are also available. There is nothing better than biting into one of these hot, straight from the oven.
Wonderland cafe, Lastarria
On a quiet street in Lastarria is the quirky Wonderland cafe, an Alice in Wonderland-themed eaterie that has people queuing to get in. Admittedly, more for the photos than for the coffee, but it is an experience not to be missed.
Split over several levels, the coffee shop has neon signs, mirrors and other eclectic objects that social media loves. Wonderland serves a selection of bagels and a full English if you fancy it, alongside juices, teas, coffees and melt-in-the-mouth cakes.
Terraza K, Luciano K Hotel
With all of the mountains surrounding Santiago, it would be a shame not to experience the sunset while sipping your favourite tipple. In direct view of San Cristobal is Luciano K's terrace bar, Terraza K. Designed by renowned Chilean architect Luciano Kulczewski in the 1920s, the Art Deco building was the tallest in the city and the first to feature central heating and an elevator. The 38-room boutique hotel has preserved many of its historic features and upgraded them with modern, contemporary artwork.
The menu at Terraza K is varied. I opted for the zucchini rolls smothered in garlic and quesadillas stuffed with cheese and mushrooms to start. For mains, it was a thin-crust pizza alongside papas fritas.
Plenty of places in Barrio Italia
Barrio Italia offers Santiago's most diverse culinary scene. While most areas serve Chilean and Italian food, here you can choose from everything from Indian curry to Vietnamese Pho.
The streets of Barrio Italia are heaving with families, young people and tourists weaving in and out of its many independent stores, roadside bars, restaurants and ice-cream parlours.
For Saturday lunch, head to Casaluz, a cool, New York-style eatery serving fresh seasonal food packed with flavour. Follow that with an early evening hot chocolate at Xoco Por Ti and dinner at Lusitano.
Where to stay
The Singular Hotel
In the heart of artsy Lastarria, opposite the tranquil Parque Forestal, is The Singular, a 62-room, elegantly decorated luxury boutique hotel. Its decor oozes 1920s Parisian charm: moody dark walls, black and white artwork and parquet flooring.
The lobby and bar offer a relaxing escape from the hustle of neighbouring street stalls and restaurants, while generously sized rooms with balconies, dressed in subtle, pared-back shades of beige, are the ideal end-of-the-day hideaways.
A rooftop bar with views of the Andes offers dreamy sunsets and makes for the perfect location to sip a pisco sour alongside some crab empanadas.
Double rooms start from £228 in low season and £350 in high season, including breakfast. thesingular.com
Casa Bueras
Two blocks away from The Singular, Casa Bueras sits inside an unassuming 1927 townhouse. This family-run boutique hotel, owned by Benjamin Naylor and Rodrigo Giadallah (also owners of Luciano K), boasts the charms of years gone by.
Walk up the original marble staircase to an intimate dining area and bar that leads to a beautiful open courtyard, where the pool takes pride of place. Nestled between tall trees on three sides, this is a sanctuary of peace in the middle of a bustling city.
There are 14 suites and rooms spread over three floors, each featuring impressively high ceilings, large windows and elegant wooden furniture that may jog some childhood memories.
Rooms from £150 including breakfast. casabuerashotel.com
Beyond 72 hours
Maipo Wine Valley
No trip to Chile is complete without experiencing some of its fine wines. Thankfully, one doesn't have to travel far from the capital to experience them. Only a 45-minute drive from Santiago, Hotel Las Majadas is the perfect base from which to explore Maipo Valley's renowned vineyards and landscapes.
The 50-room minimalist hotel sits opposite a majestic French-style palace built in 1907 by the same architect who designed Santiago's Central Bank headquarters. Between them lies an eight hectare centenary park with over 1,000 evergreen trees, including the sequoias, cypresses, and monkey puzzle trees.
Guests can cycle within the property or take a guided tour to learn about the rich history of the now restored palace and its surrounding gardens.
Come evening, there are plenty of food and drink options: Sit at the piano bar with a glass of vino while the maestro serenades with soothing sounds, head to the Tavern in the palace for a quiet moment or dine at Sequoia restaurant, where an open kitchen dishes out some seriously delectable local and seasonal cuisine inspired by the Pirque region, particularly the sequoia-smoked meat.
There are plenty of vineyards around Las Majadas, among them is Concha y Toro, an institution that has been producing wines since 1883. A wine tasting tour includes a walk around its lush vineyards and a generous serving of the Carménère, along with Cabernet Sauvignon produced from the region's flagship grape.
Rooms at Las Majadas start from £260, including breakfast with options for full and half-board. lasmajadas.cl
A day trip to Valparaiso
Known as the unofficial cultural capital of Chile, Valparaiso is home to an eclectic mix of World Heritage-listed architecture, vibrant-coloured houses and a street art scene ranging from intimate murals by recognised artists to whimsical pieces found in narrow alleys.
The subjects cover everything from fantasy to political and social issues; the walls, stairways and homes are a canvas of expression. Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre are perhaps its most recognisable areas, but don't be afraid to hit the hills and wander; you will most likely bump into a phenomenal piece of art.
Buses from Santiago's bus station to Valparaiso (a two-hour journey) are frequent and cost between £2 and £4 each way.
Details
The South America Specialists operate tailor-made luxury holidays across Latin America. thesouthamericaspecialists.com
For more inspiration on what to do in Latin America, visit lata.travel
