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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Jason Chau

How to spend 48 hours in El Born — Barcelona's charming, lesser-touristed neighbourhood

A compact guide to El Born

Stay

  • Grand Hotel Central: a 1926 mansion turned 5-star hotel in El Born

Drink

  • Paradiso: an award-winning speakeasy hidden behind a pastrami shop fridge; famous for its theatrical, multisensory cocktails
  • La Terraza del Central: a rooftop bar at Grand Hotel Central with an infinity pool, serving top-tier negronis
  • Bar Brutal: a natural wine hotspot with a menu of organic and low-intervention wines paired with small Iberian plates in a rustic setting

Eat

  • Bar del Pla: a trendy Catalan bistro serving great tapas and natural wine
  • El Xampanyet: a traditional, family-run tapas bar with 2 Euro cava and Catalan classics
  • Can Bo: an elevated Spanish-Italian tapas bar — try the crispy octopus brioche and prawn rice
  • El Chigre 1769: Asturian cider house serving grilled seafood, oysters, and regional black rice with sidra

Do

  • Mercat de Santa Catarina: a local market that has been selling fresh produce since 1848
  • Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar: the famous Gothic church constructed between 19329 and 1383 by local residents
  • Palau de la Música Catalana: a UNESCO-listed concert hall hosting flamenco, classical, opera

For centuries, El Born has been the beating heart of Barcelona. Situated outside of the city’s ancient Roman walls, the neighbourhood was once a commercial and trade hub because of its proximity to the port.

Today, it’s a go-to for culture and food lovers — home to some of the city’s best markets, tapas tavernas and bars, many of which are woven into its labyrinthine alleyways, giving visitors a feeling of going back in time.

Historic, charming and bohemian, this neighbourhood also offers respite from the heaps of tourists flocking to central Barcelona every Summer (and from the heat of locals who’d prefer they didn’t). You just need to know the right places to go.

Here’s your guide to an authentic city break in El Born.

Where to stay

Grand Hotel Central is a five-star stay which recently underwent a €14mn refurbishment. It’s also in the perfect location — yet it won’t break the bank.

(Grand Hotel Central)

Designed in 1926 as the private residence of the famous Catalán politician Francesc Cambo, the hotel was one of the most iconic buildings of Barcelona's golden age, combining Catalan grandeur with modern comfort.

Read more: A neighbourhood guide to El Poblenou, Barcelona

Its architecture is defined by hallmarks of the Catalan Noucentisme movement that emphasises symmetry, harmony and order, making for a distinct but elegant contrast from Gaudí's Modernisme style buildings which travellers commonly associate with the city.

The 147 rooms are quaint and homely, featuring a classically muted colour palette. The design invites a copious amount of warm Mediterranean sunlight into the suites. Most of them are dotted with cool artworks by renowned Catalan artists such as Ángels Ribé and Josep Grau Garriga.

(Grand Hotel Central)

For those into wellness, the hotel has a sauna and steam room as well as facial and deep tissue massage treatments. The property also hosts events at their exquisitely preserved top-floor library, previously the study of Cambo himself.

Rooms from £140 a night. Book it here

Where to eat and drink

It’s hard to find a bar scene in the world better than Barcelona’s, and most of the drinking spots are concentrated in El Born. If you only have time for one, make it Paradiso, ranked as one of the world’s best.

A speakeasy, hidden behind the fridge door of a pastrami shop, it was opened by mixologist Giacomo Giannotti.

(Paradiso)

The ultra-cool bar offers whimsical drinks that conjure bubbles, smoke, spice and glow, often at the same time. Perennial favourites here include the Super Cool Martini (a Tanqueray TEN gin based cocktail distilled with fennel and oregano and dry Mancino vermouth that crystallises upon being served) and the Mediterranean Treasure (a Ketel One Vodka and Fino Sherry drink macerated with oyster leaves, agave honey, coriander an egg white, served in a seashell).

Those staying at Grand Hotel Central are mere seconds away from arguably the best rooftop bar in Barcelona: La Terraza del Central, boasting a panoramic view of central Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea and a sleek infinity pool. The bartenders here make some of the best negronis and caipirinhas in the city.

(Grand Hotel Central Rooftop)

For wine-lovers, check out Bar Brutal, a temple of natural wine in a classical Spanish tavern. Opened in 2013 by Joan Valencia, owner of the wine distribution company Cuvée 3000, this is the place to try some of the most pioneering organic and low-intervention wine innovations in Spain today.

Drinks are paired with seasonal Iberian culinary delights such as marinated sardines and fresh oysters.

A visit to Barcelona is not complete without a tapas crawl around El Born. Start your night at Bar del Pla, a modern Catalan bistro and wine bar, widely regarded as one of top places to dine in the city. Savour their patatas bravas, mushroom carpaccio with wasabi vinaigrette, beef cheeks and suckling pig sandwich, and wash those hearty plates down with the exquisite and diverse natural wine offerings.

(Bar del Pla)

Looking for something even more old-school? Make your way to El Xampanyet, a beloved family-run tapas tavern operating since 1929. No reservations, no website, blue-tiled walls and marble tables, it’s hard to get a more traditional and authentic Catalan dining experience than this.

The signature offering here is their 2 Euro a glass house-made white cava, best paired with padron peppers, pan tomate and botifarra (Catalan sausage).

For something more formal, head to Can Bo, serving classic Spanish tapas with an Italian twist. The crispy octopus brioche, red prawn socarrat rice with clams and aioli and grilled cuttlefish are standouts.

To taste dishes from other Spanish regions, pay a visit to El Chigre 1769, a classic Asturian cider house with fresh sidra, grilled octopus from the Spanish North coast, oysters and black rice with king prawns.

El Born: your need to know

Is El Born safe?

Yes, El Born is generally safe, though like many central areas, it’s best to be vigilant for pickpockets, especially at night.

Is El Born the same as the Gothic Quarter?

No, El Born borders the Gothic Quarter but is a distinct neighborhood with a more arty, bohemian vibe.

How to get to El Born from Barcelona Airport?

Take the Aerobus to Plaça Catalunya, then walk or transfer to Metro L4 (Jaume I), or take a short taxi ride into El Born.

Is El Born popular with tourists?

Yes, it’s popular with visitors, but it’s less overrun than the Gothic Quarter and still retains a strong local charm.

What to do

Leave Mercat de La Boqueria to the crowds, and come to the calmer market where locals actually shop day in, day out. Mercat de Santa Catarina eschews all the tacky souvenir shops and touristy juice bars for a mix of stalls selling some of freshest produce, seafood and cured meats in the city.

(Mercat de Santa Catarina)

Opened in 1848, this food market is also known for its colorful mosaic roof tiles inspired by Gaudí.

Visitors can also enjoy top-quality, no-frills breakfasts and lunches at the many tapas bars here, especially Bar Joan, known for its traditional capipota (pork-based stew).

The other highlight of this neighbourhood is Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. Constructed between 1329 and 1383 by local residents (mostly merchants and sailors), the church is the pride of El Born’s working class and a symbol of the neighborhood’s humble beginnings and independent spirit.

It is still an awe to behold, with soaring octagonal columns, a classically elaborate Gothic vaulted ceiling, and luminous and immaculately painted stained glass. Come here for a moment of peace and tranquility after a day of exploration, and immerse yourself in the spiritual refuge of this vibrant city.

In the evening, enjoy a show at the UNESCO World Heritage site Palau de la Música Catalana. Envisioned as a home for Catalan choral music, the Modernisme-style concert hall is now a vibrant cultural venue hosting classical, jazz, and contemporary performances, such as the renowned opera Madame Butterfly and the spectacle of Gran Gala Flamenco this season.

Getting there

Book flights to Barcelona with Opodo.

Use code OP30STANDARD on your first flight booking as a Prime member at Opodo UK for £30 off when spending a minimum of £200

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