The saying: “The grass is always greener on the other side” is never truer than when referencing hair. How many times have you wished your hair was thicker, finer, straighter or curlier? But rather than torturing your hair into submission with curling tongs, hair straighteners or extensions, how about you embrace your natural texture? Three hairstylists share expert tips on getting the best out of your hair.
Your hair is … thick and heavy
How to cut: The key with thick, heavy hair is to “add layers and remove weight”, says Lucy Jones, stylist at Larry King. “This will add texture and movement.”
How to style: Jones recommends applying a little salt spray to towel-dried hair and leaving to air-dry for a beachy look. If you want something a little sleeker, Adam Reed, founder of Percy & Reed salons, suggests mixing a hair primer with a little oil, “to give definition and hold without heat styling. Use a wide-toothed comb to pull the product through the full length of the hair, before leaving it to dry naturally.”
Another option for seriously thick and heavy hair that’s frizz-prone is to book in for a Brazilian blow dry. “This is an excellent in-salon conditioning treatment which will help control frizz and make your hair more manageable,” says Reed.
Your hair is … frizzy and curly
How to cut: Always have curly hair cut dry, advises Jones. “This will enable the stylist to create an accurate shape, giving you more control over where your curls will sit. Curly hair changes so much in length and volume from wet to dry!”
How to style: Look to sulphate-free shampoos that are gentler on curls, as this hair type is naturally more dry and porous. Johanne Herald, master stylist at Charles Worthington, recommends looking to styling products designed for curly hair, that promise to tackle frizz. “Try mousse,” says Herald. “For more relaxed curly hair that needs coaxing, use a stronger mousse, whereas for very curly hair, use a softer, more conditioning creamy mousse.”
Jones relies on curl-defining creams and both experts recommend using a diffuser if you do want to heat-style your curls.
Your hair is … fine and fluffy
How to cut: The haircut is key for this hair type. “Ask your stylist to focus on shaping and framing around the face, as this will create a look that is fuller and flattering,” advises Jones.
How to style: “You want to use a sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner on fine and fluffy hair,” says Jones. “They’re kinder to hair and won’t leave a residue that will weigh your style down.”
Use a tiny bit of lightweight hair cream “worked into your fingers and through mid-lengths and ends. This will give the hair a little texture and no fluffiness,” she adds. Now, with fine hair, it helps to use a little heat to maximise on volume. Jones recommends that you “dry the roots away from the scalp using a brush or tip your head upside down and use your hairdryer on a slow speed, as this will help set the hair, giving it body and movement.”
Your hair is … afro
How to cut: “Ensure your stylist cuts your curls almost dry and that they never use a razor, as this can tear the hair,” advises Herald.
How to style: With afro hair, you need to be careful of colouring, “especially lightening”, says Herald. Always book a consultation with a colourist before your appointment.
Afro hair requires lots of moisture — an in-salon gloss treatment will help to tame any unwanted frizz. Herald advises that when you’re at home you “apply oil treatments overnight”.
It’s best to air-dry afro hair. “If your hair gets fluffy when drying, wrap it up in a scarf to keep it in place and allow to dry naturally. Once it’s dried, you can manipulate the hair with your fingers,” says Reed.
Your hair is … fine and silky
How to cut: Herald suggests steering towards strong outlines and full fringes, avoiding anything wispy or layered.
How to style: “It’s difficult to achieve volume in this hair type,” says Herald. “It needs guts and texture.” To get the best out of fine, silky hair, it’s a good idea to blast it dry with a hairdryer (but always use a lightweight heat-protecting mist first). “Colouring this type of hair can actually add volume and texture, as the colour swells the hair,” she says.
Herald adds that it’s best to avoid “big flat brushes, straightening irons, serums or oils, as these will just flatten the hair”. Instead, “wash and dry your hair at night and next morning add a little volume using hair tongs and some hair-volumising powder at the roots.” You can even speak with your stylist about getting a semi-permanent wave put in if you don’t want have to rely on using tongs on your hair at home.
Your hair is … medium and wavy
How to cut: “Ask for weight to be removed underneath, to help the hair sit a little flatter, and keep the layers on top long. If you have curlier sections, you can get an in-salon partial smoothing treatment to help with day-to-day styling,” says Herald.
How to style: Essentially, if you have medium and wavy hair you’re pretty lucky. “Once this hair type is conditioned, it will behave,” says Herald. But it really does need moisture! “Treat your hair to a fortnightly at-home mask and use oil when styling. When you’re at the salon, always have a treatment.”
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