1. To make dry caramel, sprinkle an even layer of sugar in a heavy-bottomed frying pan or saucepan. As you heat the sugar, the edges and bottom will melt first and start browningPhotograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small2. With a heatproof utensil, gently push the liquefied sugar toward the centre, which encourages the still-solid sugar to begin meltingPhotograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small3. Once the sugar begins to colour, watch very closely because dry caramel cooks rapidlyPhotograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small
4. Don't take your eyes off it until it's the proper colourPhotograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small5. When the caramel has darkened to the point of being almost burnt ...Photograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small6. ... when it's dark amber in colour, smoking, and beginning to gently foam ...Photograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small7. ... take it off the heat and stop the cooking by pouring in the liquid called for in the recipePhotograph: Maren Caruso/Jacqui Small8. Then stir or whisk the caramel over low heat until it's smooth. If the lumps persist, you can always strain them out. Don't be discouraged if you burn your caramel of it becomes a mess of dry crystals. Even very experienced pastry chefs overcook caramel Photograph: Jacqui Small
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