How to cook a Christmas ham

1. Smoked boneless gammon. This piece is around a kilo Photograph: Tim Hayward/guardian.co.uk

2. Cover with cold water and add your favourite aromatics. I've used onions, leeks, celery, carrots, black pepper, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf Photograph: guardian.co.uk

3. After two hours of simmering, remove the meat and allow it to cool. The remaining stock makes great soup Photograph: guardian.co.uk

4. Carefully remove the rind. It should come away easily but be ready to help it along with a sharp knife Photograph: guardian.co.uk

5. Cut a criss-cross pattern into the fat, trying to avoid going through to the meat (I failed). Stud with a few cloves. Though they're decorative they're really pungent so go easy Photograph: guardian.co.uk

6. Mix three tbs of dry mustard powder with 200g of dark muscovado sugar and let down to a gritty paste with some hot water Photograph: guardian.co.uk

7. Paint the treacly mess onto the ham, working it well into the cuts on the surface. Foil line your oven dish if you don't want it glued up with epoxy -strength toffee then bang the whole lot in a very hot oven for half an hour. Basting occasionally. Watch for burning. Photograph: guardian.co.uk

8. Allow to cool before slicing and serve with homemade piccalilli Photograph: guardian.co.uk