It’s midday on a July day, and I’m perched on the edge of a glistening infinity pool, sipping a cocktail.
The sun is shining but I’m not cowering in an air-conditioned hotel lobby. Nor am I surrounded by British tourists jostling for a spot under a parasol, because I’m not on the Med. In fact I’m nowhere near the coast. Escaping the crowds and the soaring temperatures, this summer I’m in the Alps.
Best known for its 270 kilometres of ski slopes the alpine resort town of Hinterglemm isn’t the destination most Brits would look to for a summer getaway, but with the snow and the apres hoards gone, what’s left here in Austria for the rest of the year is a laid-back, Euro chic oasis.
Nestled in the Glemm Valley of Salzburg, the town boasts panoramic views of the surrounding luscious green mountain ranges, and you’ll be hard pressed to find anyone in the area without hiking poles or a bike helmet.
With nine gondolas, 400km of hiking trails and over 90km of downhill biking trails this is a hiking and biking paradise, and crucially comes with a welcome high altitude breeze.
Gaze down from one of the ear-poppingly high cable cars and you’ll see an extensive network of trails here criss-crossing the landscape and dotted with ant-like hikers, freeriders and mountain bikers buzzing over every slope.
The town itself is charming and pristine, the dark wood lodge style buildings adorned with traditional window boxes of bright red pelargoniums.
You’ll find no rowdy nightclubs or doddering coach parties here. Instead the town is quietly reserved. Its high street is lined with sophisticated bars and cafes punctuated only by high-end outdoor shops and art galleries. It might just be 2025’s answer to the trendy Dolomites.
Where to stay?
Whether in town to trek mountains or to simply luxuriate and soak in the views and fresh air, the family run Alpin Juwel provides a modern, yet relaxed base.
A traditional Alpine lodge style hotel, the Alpin Juwel leans into its heritage with inviting warm woods and fur throws, but fosters an inviting new-age bohemian feel with hanging wicker swing chairs, cream crochet textiles and sprawling sofas which could tempt even the most ardent hiker to take a day to simply kick back and relax.
And relaxing really is the order of the day here. The spa and wellness area offers an extensive menu of massages, beauty treatments and Ayurvedic medicine, which can be enjoyed before retiring to the glass-fronted sauna with a mountain view. Cool off in the outdoor infinity pool, surrounded by tropical plants in your own Alpine oasis, before climbing into a cosy outdoor snug and ordering a cocktail from the bar.
If self-care also involves exercise and the great outdoors for you, this place couldn’t be better situated. Located within a few minutes walk of the town’s ski lifts, visitors can reach nine different mountain tops in no time. Use the local Joker card which is granted to guests at check-in from May to October. It allows for free use of gondolas, as well as local buses and trains — opening up the whole Salzburg region.
For an even easier excursion join one of the hotel’s daily guided hikes or bike rides to see some of the region's most stunning views. For those looking for something really unique, join the sunrise morning hike. You’ll need to set out at 3am to climb a nearby peak in time to watch the sun flood the horizon with gold — but it’s worth it.
Then head back to replenish and nourish with Alpin’s exquisite food. Serving up locally sourced, organic ingredients across a buffet and a La carte menu for breakfast and dinner, the hotel’s food is genuinely innovative. From a mushroom, raspberry and carrot amuse-bouche to artichoke and apple soup, the unique flavour combinations hit every time. The Pear Helene dessert — a poached pear puree with a layer of cream ensconced in delicate white chocolate painted to mimic a perfect mini fruit — was a true work of art.
After dinner, stroll through the town and catch one of the area’s summer street parties which sees shops open late, live outdoor music, and quaint stalls selling local crafts and produce.
Even on these lively evenings, the rowdy crowds of the region's winter season are hard to imagine. The vibe remains cool, calm and family-friendly.
Delivering sport, wellness, adventure, views and just the right amount of sun, the Alpin Juwel in Hinterglemm offers a laid-back but sophisticated European escape.
Summer rooms start from €164 per night on a half-board basis. alpinjuwel.at
