More than 140 miles of sand dunes stretch along the Atlantic coast of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, a rich ecosystem that includes vast maritime pine forest. Indeed, the coastline is one immense length of gorgeously soft sand beach, broken only by the inlet to Arcachon Bay, 40 miles west of Bordeaux. But there is so much more than magnificent dunes to discover along the Médoc-Atlantique.
At the Hourtin dunes and marshes nature reserve, 40 miles north-west of Bordeaux, you can discover not only the dune ridge and pine forest, but marshy meadows, lakes – and a much quieter, off-the-tourist-trail experience. There are self-guided hikes along waymarked trails, including boardwalks above the vegetation, in addition to guided walks from the reserve visitor centre with expert naturalists. Both help visitors appreciate this extensive and important ecosystem without causing sustained damage to it.
Discover self-guided hikes at Hourtin dunes and marshes nature reserve; try canoeing at Le Moutchic or windsurfing at the UCPA Centre Nautique. Photographs: Medoc Atlantique Tourisme; Jean-Emmanuel Jay; Shutterstock
Inland from Aquitaine’s beaches and sand dunes are Lac d’Hourtin and its smaller neighbour, Lac de Lacanau, both popular with watersports enthusiasts. At Hourtin Port, the UCPA Centre Nautique offers kitesurfing, windsurfing, catamaran sailing and paddleboarding on the huge, shallow lake, with instruction in French and English. There’s a water garden adjacent to the centre for little ones, with specially adapted equipment, too.
Hourtin also has an inflatable water park, Splash Park, on the lake (for children from seven years), with a similar facility at Le Moutchic at the north end of Lac de Lacanau, too. Here, you can hire canoes and paddleboards to venture off to find the secret, hidden beaches on the west shore of the lake. It really is a wonderful, tranquil place to explore the natural surroundings and wildlife from the water.
If staying on solid ground is more your thing, the hundreds of square miles of pine forests offer cool, scented respite from late summer temperatures for cycling, with waymarked cycle trails throughout the Médoc-Atlantique. It’s a very pleasant way to reach the little beach resorts, such as Lacanau-Ocean, Carcans-Plage or Hourtin-Plage. My pick is a stop at La Benarderie, a fantastic farm shop supporting local agriculture north of Hourtin, to pick up picnic treats on a bike ride.
Arcachon is home to 15 miles of cycle paths; you’ll find 19th-century stilt cabins on the Île aux Oiseaux; visit Source des Abatilles, a colourful kiosk where mineral water comes up from the ground. Photographs: Kevin Biette; Shutterstock; Alamy
Or you could simply set off by bike to explore the 15 miles of waymarked cycle paths that crisscross Arcachon, discovering the town’s marina, its beaches, and the beautiful belle époque architecture while admiring the views over the Arcachon Bay. This sheltered aquatic playground is a must for lovers of outdoor activities. Be sure to stop by at the Source des Abatilles, a pretty and colourful kiosk from the belle époque period where the famous mineral water (served in high-end restaurants throughout France) comes up from the ground having travelled through volcanic rock from the Auvergne.
To experience the Arcachon Bay at an even slower pace, though, step on board a pinasse, the traditional wooden boat that’s emblematic of Arcachon. You’ll see the sights of the bay on your boat trip, including Cap Ferrat and the Île aux Oiseaux with its characteristic 19th-century stilt cabins – perched above the water.
Dune du Pilat is the highest dune in Europe; a yoga session on the beach is not to be missed. Photographs: Jean-Phillippe Bellon; Getty Images; Philippe Hedeline
You’ll also pass by the Dune du Pilat, the most famous of Aquitaine’s dunes and the highest dune in Europe, which is labelled as a Grand Site de France. With its incredible dune-forest-ocean panoramas, the Dune du Pilat is one of France’s most visited natural sites. Passing it at sea level on board a pinasse brings its sheer scale into awe-inspiring focus. But, perhaps, the best part of the trip is stopping off along the way for a one-hour yoga session on the beach, with the sound of the sea as your soundtrack.
Inland, a popular excursion from Bordeaux is cycling along the Roger Lapébie cycle track, a 35-mile, traffic-free cycle path between Bordeaux and Sauveterre-de-Guyenne. Créon, a bastide town along the route, is a fabulous stop for lunch with several good restaurants. You’ll pass through varied countryside along the greenway, including Entre-Deux-Mers vineyards.
The Roger Lapébie cycle track will take you from Bordeaux to Sauveterre-de-Guyenne (bottom right); discover the history of the region at Saucats-La Brède geological nature reserve. Photographs: Le temps d’un week-end; Shutterstock
It’s hard to tell by sipping a glass of chilled white in a local restaurant, but Aquitaine was once – 20 million years ago! – a tropical sea. A visit to Saucats-La Brède geological nature reserve, 18 miles south of Bordeaux, helps bring this to life. At the visitor centre you’ll see shark teeth, corals, and tropical shells from Aquitaine, alongside fossils on a guided walk through the forest – a last reminder that this is one very special landscape.
Bordeaux: where to eat, sleep and visit
Eat …
Fleur des Pins, Arcachon
This is culinary art at affordable prices. Go for the lunchtime Menu de la Semaine for best value. Expect oysters and other local, seasonal produce.
Sleep …
Les Cabanes Girondines
Opt for fabulous treehouses and handmade wood cabins surrounded by prestigious vineyards, only 15 minutes from Bordeaux.
Don’t miss …
Ouvre la Voix (5-7 September)
September’s Ouvre la Voix cyclo-musical festival at Entre-deux-Mers, has gentle bike rides for all, music, heritage and gastronomy.
If you’d like to discover more on Bordeaux and why sailing to France with Brittany Ferries is the best way to start your holiday, then visit brittany-ferries.co.uk. Set sail from Portsmouth, Poole or Plymouth and enjoy up to seven days in France from just £206, based on a car and two passengers
