Yotam Ottolenghi’s Dutch-processed cocoa powder (The Sweet Spot, Weekend, 2 September; Letters, 4 September) is cocoa powder that has had its flavour and colour enhanced by processing with alkali solution, usually potassium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. This is done because the cocoa used to produce powder is generally not as flavoursome or of as high a quality as that used for chocolate making, so is cheaper. The vast majority of the cocoa powders available to buy in the UK and Europe have been processed with alkali to manipulate their flavour. The rare cocoa powders that have not been processed in this way are termed natural cocoa powders and these retain the natural acidity and characteristic flavour of the cocoa bean. Natural cocoa powders are not the same as raw cocoa powders! The flavour of natural cocoa powders is reliant on the growing conditions, so producing a consistent flavour is much more dependent on the skill of the blender in selecting the cocoa.
Adrian Smith
(Master chocolatier), Reading, Berkshire
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