Politics is a curious thing. It has a habit of transcending the world of governments and policy making, percolating unchallenged into seemingly unrelated areas of everyday life, from nutrition and health, to cooking and even horticulture. One example I have noticed with surprising frequency is the idea that “British”, “traditional” or “heritage” crop varieties are inherently better tasting and often more nutritious than others. I have even read repeated claims that “imported” fruit contains too much sugar, which makes it measurably less healthy than British cultivars (presumably irrespective of the country of origin or the variety).
Such views are so pervasive, so frequently repeated, so unquestioned in the books, blogs and TV shows, they can seem like absolute truths. Yet as a botanist I know such sweeping claims have little or no scientific basis. If they stem from anything it is political ideology, not objective, measurable evidence.
The key factor that determines the flavour and nutritional content of a crop variety is its genetics, regardless of the date or geographical location of their creation. Some old, English varieties can indeed be fantastic, but others are bland and unpalatable – making buzzwords like “local” and “heirloom” an extremely poor predictor of eating quality. In fact, modern, imported varieties are often significantly higher in the compounds responsible for flavour and nutrition, including one of my favourite ever berries, the sweet, fragrant and nutrient dense, black raspberry ‘Jewel’.
Neither a blackberry nor a raspberry, but a distinct species from North America, the recently introduced black raspberry Rubus occidentalis has an intensely sweet flavour and complex aroma, which to me tastes like raspberry cordial mixed with bramble jelly. Just incredible. But its talents don’t end there. It contains a whopping five times the anthocyanin content of some blackberry varieties, attracting the interest of medical researchers, with a growing body of studies revealing intriguing results. For example, in one phase 1 clinical trial (the first step in drug development) at the University of Ohio, researchers reported that consuming the fruit could reduce the markers of DNA damage in oral cancer survivors. The authors of these studies are careful not to make claims that go beyond their limited evidence and more research is underway, but being sweet, delicious and just as easy to grow as any blackberry, I have planted loads.
If you are keen to try a new blackberry or raspberry crop, don’t limit yourself to old school varieties – as some new kids on the block can be just as good, if not better.
Email James at james.wong@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @Botanygeek
