From the 17th-century ramparts of Saint-Malo to the foodie delights of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, the northeastern part of Brittany’s 1,730 miles of rugged coastline has eight unmissable destinations to tempt visitors at any time of year. Perfect to explore in the comfort of your car, and boasting a well-established cycle network and some breathtaking walking routes, getting around is both simple and an adventure in itself.
Saint-Malo
Founded by Welsh saint Saint-Maclou in the sixth century, Saint-Malo is many people’s first introduction to Brittany. After arriving from Portsmouth on Brittany Ferries’ new aptly-named hybrid-LNG ship Saint-Malo, a comfortable and hassle-free way to travel to France, it’s a relief to find that the walled old town, Intra Muros, is a seven-minute drive from the port. Stroll through narrow streets, once the domain of pirates and explorers, before heading to one of the golden sandy beaches lapped by emerald water. The coast-clinging GR34 “customs officers’ path” and La Vélomaritime take walkers and cyclists farther afield. And if that’s not enough nature for you, head to the Pointe du Grouin for some of the most breathtaking views in the area.
Cancale
About 8 miles east of Saint-Malo, Cancale is an essential stop when visiting this part of Brittany. Aside from its spectacular location at the west end of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, the main reason to visit this traditional fishing port is to sample its oysters. So highly prized are these molluscs that Cancale is often cited as one of France’s “remarkable sites of taste”. Try some at the daily waterfront market, where you can get a dozen from around €8 (£6), best accompanied by a chilled muscadet.
Mont-Saint-Michel Bay
Mont-Saint-Michel Bay has Europe’s highest tides, reaching a difference of up to 15 metres between low and high tide. Whatever you do, don’t go off exploring the exposed sands without a qualified guide. A good place to start is the Maison de la Baie in Le Vivier-sur-Mer, a 30-minute drive east of Saint-Malo. Here, staff take visitors out on hikes or trips in the mytili-mobile (a trailer pulled by a tractor) to see the PDO (protected destination of origin) mussels, which are grown on wooden poles in the sea. Enjoy a bowl of the bivalves in the village at La Dégustation Tonneau, where the view is especially atmospheric at sunset.
Dol-de-Bretagne
Dominated by a 65-metre hill from which there are sweeping views across the green countryside, Dol, as it’s commonly referred to, has a distinctly different feel from its coastal neighbours. Around 17 miles inland from Saint-Malo, this officially designated “little city of character” is one of Brittany’s most important religious sites. Saint-Samson Cathedral – named after one of the seven Celtic saints who came to evangelise the region – was the seat of the now-defunct Archbishopric of Dol (founded by said saint) until 1880. In a field on the southern outskirts of town is one of Brittany’s prehistoric treasures, the Menhir du Champ-Dolent, the region’s second-tallest standing stone.
L’Écrin Sauvage
With 60 permanent species of birds and 360 species of plants, it’s no wonder this 175-hectare area of horse-grazed marshland at Sougéal has been listed as one of Brittany’s most remarkable natural sites. The easiest way to explore this area to the east of Dol is by car, as there are a couple of charming little villages and a museum of local traditional clogs to see, but you might also want to bring a bike. Heritage centre and museum La Maison du Marais offers boat trips and walking routes where you can find out everything worth knowing about the local flora and fauna – as well as a few lakeside picnic tables for a bring-your-own snack with a view.
Combourg
Thanks to its lakeside setting with a turreted castle rising up behind black-roofed granite houses, Combourg, a 20-minute drive south of Dol, is without doubt one of the most attractive towns in Brittany. Its claim to fame is that writer François-René de Chateaubriand, considered the father of French Romanticism, spent his youth here – his family’s descendants still own the medieval castle Château de Combourg and it is open to the public. Have a wander around its 25-hectare gardens – for free – before checking out the 16th-century half-timbered buildings, now housing charming shops and restaurants in the town.
The Ille-et-Rance Canal
Flowing from Rennes, the capital of Brittany, up to Dinan, the Ille-et-Rance Canal opened in 1834 to transport goods. Now, the industrial barges have been replaced by pleasure boats and the canal’s well-maintained, flat towpaths are popular with walkers, cyclists and horse riders of all ages. An easy route is to follow the path a mile south from Dinan to Léhon. This “little town of character” offers peaceful respite in the cloister of its former Benedictine monastery, the 13th-century castle ruins and rambling streets.
Saint-Suliac
Given its location on the banks of the Rance, lined with postcard-worthy granite cottages, this former Viking settlement and fishing port is a deserved member of “France’s most beautiful villages”. Meander around the streets, which are so narrow they are only accessible on foot, or take a walk along the river before climbing up 73-metre Mont Gareau for great views. On the first weekend of August, a festival celebrates the village’s past with Breton songs, sea shanties, parades and feasts of local produce on the harbourside.
Discover more about Brittany and how to get there aboard Brittany Ferries’ new hybrid-LNG powered ship, Saint-Malo: visit brittany-ferries.co.uk
