With Giorgio Armani passing away earlier this month at the age of 91, Milan Fashion Week was missing its "maestro". And as such a titan of the global fashion industry and one of the only designer labels to genuinely be a household name, both his shows, Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, were always going to feel bittersweet.
The Emporio Armani SS26 collection, which presumably marks one of the last to have been presided over by the forensic eye of Mr Armani, was a typical display of how “less is more”. His woman’s mainstay is still tailored separates, always with in-built ease and a sense of practicality. This was as true as ever at today’s show, where one crew-neck gilet was blessed with a gigantic pair of pockets (for a man, Mr Armani always knew what mattered to women). Trousers were also louche and wide-legged, proving that comfort, too, is a priority. There was also a dose of fun, however (said trousers were styled with glittering bralet-style tops or, in one case, a translucent mesh T-shirt).
The Armani touch revolutionised the world of tailoring. It’s a touch that might feel lighter or less ground-breaking now, but it was still quietly evident on the catwalk. Many Italian brands are known for delivering high-octane glamour. Mr Armani certainly knew something about that word, having dressed countless Oscar-winners, but his was always a more elegant, less in-your-face take. The takeaways were soft-focus shades, flat shoes, allowing for the perfect distances between hemline, ankle and sole, as well as slouchy bags that could be slung over the shoulder or squashed under the forearm like a clutch.
With five decades at the top of his game, Mr Armani would naturally expect the show to go on. In fact, the only sign of change in the air was the finale. The models clapped as they lapped the room and, instead of taking his usual bow, Silvana Armani, his niece, appeared to wave graciously at the raised iPhones, as well as kiss her right hand and lift it briefly to the ceiling.
The future of the privately-owned empire he built remains uncertain. In his will, according to a report by Reuters, Armani specified that a 15% stake in the company must be sold within a timeframe of 18 months, with priority being given to luxury behemoths LVMH, L'Oreal and EssilorLuxottica.
As thoughtful in his approach to business as he was to the precise cut of a men's suit jacket, Mr Armani was no doubt securing his future legacy for the next generation of Armani-wearers. Time will tell what happens to Armani, the brand. But Armani the man will remain a fashion industry legend forevermore.
