To bike or not to bike? That is the real question worth pondering when it comes to a break in North Sealand. This picturesque coastal region north of Copenhagen is where the Danes like to holiday – and locals will argue that the area is best explored on two wheels, breathing in the sea air as you go. If you’d rather travel by car, stick to the winding coast road for epic views, and take the fast track from castle to beach.
There is plenty to discover in the north of Denmark’s largest island. Start at Helsingor (Elsinore) and the region’s biggest drawcard, Hamlet’s castle. Kronborg castle is best known to Shakespeare fans as the fabled Elsinore, setting for one of the Bard’s most famous plays. Explore this coastal fortress with its soaring towers, opulent Renaissance-era royal apartments and the dark and damp casements beneath it all, where soldiers hid during sieges. Visit in August for the annual Shakespeare Festival and see Hamlet performed in the open air.
If you choose to travel by bike, the north coast cycle route (route 47) runs from Helsingor all the way along the northern coast to Hundested, some 70km (43.5 miles) away. For couples, North Sealand’s Love on a Bike scheme is a must: designed for two, the offer includes hire of a pair of bicycles, with the added bonus of a free pick-up service if you get a puncture.
All along route 47 there is beautiful coastal scenery to enjoy. The first leg is the 40-minute cycle (or 20-minute drive) to Hornbaek, known for the quality of its light, which has lured numerous artists. Galleriet Hornbaek is home to a wide range of local art, from paintings to pottery, while the picturesque courtyards among Hornbaek’s historic listed houses double up as restaurants serving fresh local seafood.
Just 12km further west is the old fishing town of Gilleleje, at the very tip of Sealand. You’ll find the region’s largest fishing harbour here and can pick up fresh or smoked fish to eat greasy-fingered on the golden beaches that stretch away to the west and your next stop, Tisvilde. By bike you can be here in just one hour, but why not slow the pace and take a detour to enjoy the long strand of pebble beach you’re hugging? Look out for paragliders near Rageleje and make time to sit and smell the flowers at Heatherhill, where you’ll also see juniper and plenty of sheep.
Tisvilde may detain you a while. With its long stretches of white-sand beach, clear waters and undulating sand dunes this is a hard place to leave. The old fishermen’s homes are now charming self-catering accommodation and there’s always ice cream in summer too, served up from the beachfront kiosk.
Tisvilde is backed by one of Denmark’s largest forests, the Tisvilde Hegn. This is the country’s oldest plantation, planted to stop the coastal dunes burying the land behind them. Cool off under the pines, stumbling upon springs considered sacred and spotting both native and migrating birdlife.
If you’ve chosen to explore by bike this is where it truly pays off, with a cycle path running through the woodland (cars must go around it) to Liseleje and its unspoiled arc of white sands. You’ve seen plenty similar by this point but we still reckon you’ll be snapping selfies on this one; its tufty dunes sweeping down to shallow, turquoise blue waters.
The western end of the Danish Riviera is at Hundested, a 10km journey further along the coast and surrounded by water on three sides. Here you’ll find a large harbour, plenty of waterfront restaurants and – your reward for completing the journey – the Halsnaes Bryghus microbrewery with its range of locally brewed beers.
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