Feb. 16--Well, this certainly is a flavorful preparation of the bird. Would be nice to have wines as flavorful to pair with it; or, contrariwise, wines that are so humble and quiet of character that they are like gesso on a canvas, against which to paint the colors (flavors, aromas, textures) of the food. Recommendations for both sorts come along. What they all share, however, is a fine spine of crisp acidity -- the key component to any good food and wine match. And one wine, a sparkler, is about as good as it gets for pairing with flavorful foods.
THE FOOD
Mediterranean chicken and sausage orzo
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat in a skillet. Add 1 small onion, thinly sliced; cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Remove from pan. Add 1 cut-up chicken to skillet; lightly brown pieces on both sides, about 10 minutes. Add 3 Italian sausages, sliced in 1-inch chunks; cook until browned, 2 minutes. Stir in 1/2 cup dry white wine; lower heat; simmer, covered, until chicken is done, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Return onion to skillet. Add 15 grape tomatoes, halved, and 20 green olives, halved; cook until warmed through. Serve with orzo. Makes: 6 servings
Recipe by Joe Gray
THE WINES
2013 Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy: So pure an expression of dolcetto that it is liquid crystal; gobs of juicy dark berry fruit, rustic but plush tannin and sparky acidity on the finish; really fine dolcetto. $20
2011 Domaine de Pallus Chinon, Les Pensees de Pallus, Chinon, Loire, France: All cabernet franc; layers of flavors and texture from three different vineyard sites; ever-so-slight herbal note for fine character; tangy end. $25
NV Laurent Cognard Cremant de Bourgogne, Burgundy, France: Mostly chardonnay, with some pinot blanc; delicious Champagne-method rendition and a fantastic price; clean, fresh, zippy. $20-$25
