Nov. 03--There are two ways, at least, to look at pairing wine with flavorful, even hot-spicy food. One way would be to be sure the wine itself is flavorful and aromatic so it's not knocked out by the food. The other way is quite an opposite tack: be sure the wine is quiet, demur and humble so that the food's flavors, aromas and textures can play off or be reflected by it, in the manner of gesso sealing a canvas so that the painter's colors bounce and don't bleed into the fabric. Recommendations come for both types of wines.
THE FOOD: Pork chops and wilted greens
Mix together 1/2 teaspoon each ground cumin and salt; sprinkle over 4 pork loin chops. Saute 1 teaspoon minced ginger and 1 minced clove garlic in a skillet in 1 tablespoon canola oil, 1 minute. Add chops; brown on both sides and cook until cooked through. Deglaze pan with juice from half a lime. Meanwhile, steam 1 bunch kale or spinach, chopped, over medium heat until wilted. Drain; saute greens in 1 tablespoon each canola oil and sesame oil, about 5 minutes. Season with salt; sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Serve chops with greens alongside. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Joe Gray
THE WINES
2011 Dow Vale do Bomfim Red, Douro, Portugal: Super fresh red fruits, moderate tannins and plush, juicy texture, ready to go head to head with food. $11-$13
2013 Matthiasson Chardonnay Linda Vista, Napa, California: Delicious, quiet, wee-wood chardonnay, with crystalline fruit (no tropicals) as if drinking liquid pear skin. $25
2012 Argento Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina: A blend of malbecs from four various cool- and warm-climate vineyards for more complexity than is the norm; chocolate-cherry compote. $11-$14
