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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Lucy Smith

Can Superdrug’s £15 moisturiser rival Elemis’s £65 cult cream

I tested the high-end and budget creams, both of which promise to boost firmness - (Elemis/Superdrug/The Independent)

The Elemis pro-collagen marine cream is about as iconic as a moisturiser can be, and everyone from Kate Hudson to Britain’s own Molly-Mae Hague count themselves as fans.

For those unfamiliar, the Elemis cream harnesses the power of salt water algae (padina pavonica) to deeply hydrate and, together with chlorella (fresh water algae), stimulate collagen production. The only drawback? It will set you back a hefty £65 (Boots.com).

Now, thanks to Superdrug, hope is on the horizon with the promise of an affordable alternative that costs just £15 (Superdrug.com). The brand’s cheaper iteration, known as the optimum collagen day cream, features the same collagen amino acids and a whole host of hydrating heroes. The question is, does it perform as well in practice as it does on paper? That’s exactly what I tried to find out.

How I tested

I put both formulas to the test, so you don't have to (Lucy Smith)

I used both formulas for two weeks and, on occasion, I applied them to the skin without additional skincare products (serums and oils) to allow them to perform in isolation. I assessed how much product was required, whether they left my skin hydrated enough, any instant glow and how my make-up looked (both instantly and over the course of the day). Similarly, I paid close attention to assess if they caused breakouts or irritation.

Taking tests one step further, I applied the formulas to either side of my face to spot any key differences and see how they worked as a primer for my make-up.

Why you can trust IndyBest reviews

In addition to covering a wider breadth of beauty reviews for more than five years, I’ve headed up The Independent’s guide to the best moisturisers for oily skin and, in terms of Elemis specifically, I’ve reviewed the brand’s latest launch – a cherry edition of the cult pro-collagen cleansing balm. I’ve spoken to dermatologists like Dr Edel Woods and Dr Hassan Galadari, and I’m well-versed in the ingredients that do and don’t benefit your skin. Below, see my verdict on both Elemis and Superdrug’s collagen moisturisers.

Elemis pro-collagen marine cream

Rating: 4.5/5

Key ingredients: Collagen, antioxidant radish and carrot root extracts, glycerin, vitamin E, padina pavonica, chlorella, soothing rose and bark extracts, shea butter, fatty acids, fragrance

Skin type: All bar sensitive and acne-prone skin, plus those with *very* oily skin

Cruelty-free and vegan: Vegan but not cruelty-free

Why we love it

  • Smells heavenly
  • A little goes a long way
  • Suitable for most skin types
  • Gives skin a healthy, dewy glow

Take note

  • Expensive
  • Fragrance may irritate sensitive skin

The formula

The ingredients in Elemis’s pro-collagen marine cream are undoubtedly impressive. The formula is chock full of antioxidants, vitamins and naturally-derived goodness; it sets out to soothe and revitalise with the added bonus of a refreshing essential oil scent.

In terms of its anti-ageing effects, the marine cream takes a three-pronged approach, combining collagen amino acids with the collagen-boosting abilities of algae, plus the vitamin A-adjacent properties of carrot root. Together, this promises to increase the skin’s elasticity and minimise the appearance of fine lines.

Performance

I applied the pro-collagen cream to bare skin without any other skincare to interfere (Lucy Smith)

It’s worth noting that, as a 27-year-old, my skin isn’t exactly abundant with fine lines and wrinkles (if I do say so myself). That said, I paid close attention to the plumpness of my complexion, which can appear dry and lacklustre when I’ve not moisturised. However, the brand’s marine cream certainly transformed it from that state. While I do have oily skin, I was still impressed to find that a dollop the size of a 10p coin managed to saturate the entirety of my face and neck. And it sunk into the skin swiftly without leaving a greasy barrier on the surface.

I wouldn’t say the cream took my skin from limp to springy (I’m not sure anything can) but I could certainly see that my cheeks appeared youthfully dewy and the fine lines around my eyebrows and forehead looked less sunken.

After one week’s wear, I saw no surplus of blackheads or breakouts – despite the presence of a few moderately comedogenic ingredients (shea butter) – and my make-up always applied comfortably, without any separation or excess shine.

Buy now £56.10, Boots.com

Superdrug optimum collagen day cream

Rating: 4.5/5

Key ingredients: Collagen, antioxidant radish extract, glycerin, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, squalane, antioxidant soybean oil, fragrance, SPF agents (Elemis cream is available in SPF iteration also)

Skin types: All bar sensitive and acne-prone skin

Cruelty-free and vegan: Cruelty-free, but not stated whether or not it's vegan

Why we love it

  • Affordable
  • Quenches dry skin
  • Sits nicely under make-up without any separation
  • Sinks into skin quickly

Take note

  • Fragrance may irritate sensitive skin
  • Unaesthetic packaging

The formula

Superdrug’s optimum collagen day cream comes with the same key ingredients as the Elemis version, featuring collagen amino acids, antioxidant radish extract, glycerin, and vitamin E. These work together to soothe and revitalise the skin, much like the Elemis formula. However, where the high-end brand draws nourishment from ingredients like shea butter and chlorella, Superdrug’s cream opts for soybean oil and squalane.

Likewise, it swaps the hydration from algae – which is often the cause of high price points in skincare – for the lower-cost humectant abilities (drawing moisture from the air) of hyaluronic acid. And, on the whole, there are a lot of parallels between the ingredients of the two creams.

Read more: This £4 lip balm is as good as Clinique’s £25 black honey lipstick, according to our beauty writer

Performance

I tested Elemis' formula on one half of my face and Superdrug's on the other (Lucy Smith)

When you first glance at the Superdrug collagen cream, it’s immediately apparent that the formula is thicker and has less of a whipped texture than its premium counterpart. But, dare I say it, the differences stop there.

The cream smooths into the skin beautifully, requiring the same 10p-sized amount and gliding across the surface of the skin without dragging. It hydrates and nourishes without leaving a sheen, and melds with make-up seamlessly.

When wearing both moisturisers under make-up, I asked team IndyBest to judge which side appeared better and, while some agreed the differences were undetectable, a few did state that the Superdrug side had a more flawless finish. In any case, an undetectable difference between a £7.49 and £65 moisturiser is a win in my book.

The difference in finish between the two creams was negligible (Superdrug/Elemis/Lucy Smith)

Regarding its plumping/anti-ageing abilities, my skin felt comforted upon application and, after one week’s use without any supplementary serums or actives, it appeared just as healthy and hydrated. Again, it’s not a miracle worker and the fine lines in my forehead didn’t vanish during the course of seven days, but they did mirror how they look when I’m using retinol, which is a product I swear by.

Buy now £7.49, Superdrug.com

The verdict: Superdrug vs Elemis

While Elemis’s pro-collagen marine cream undoubtedly has more expensive ingredients, my experience with both creams led me to believe that you don’t need to spend more in order to achieve comparable results. That’s not to say that Elemis’s moisturiser isn’t a strong anti-ageing contender. On the contrary, it’s a skincare icon for a reason, not least of all because it’s a delight to use. Ultimately though, if you’re looking to save some cash, I can confirm that Superdrug’s optimum range makes a great alternative.

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