This series discusses the present and future of washoku traditional Japanese cuisine. In this installment, we explore ekiben, a bento boxed meal made for train travelers.
Ekiben are a quintessential element of Japan's food culture, born from the simple idea of pairing regional specialties with fresh rice.
Though first developed more than 130 years ago -- one theory traces their origin to onigiri rice balls wrapped in bamboo husks that were sold in Utsunomiya in 1885 -- ekiben are a constantly evolving cuisine. Over the past 30 years of the Heisei era alone, many excellent variations have been created, and there are currently about 2,000 kinds of ekiben, according to an association of shops at JR stations nationwide.
"Ekiben are like a mirror that reflects the times," said Takafumi Mochizuki, a writer specializing in ekiben who has eaten about 4,500 of the boxed meals over the past 15 years.
In the Heisei era, ekiben have faced stiff competition from, among other things, bento boxes sold at convenience stores, which have increasingly popped up in regional areas.
More ekiben have begun using region-specific delicacies, including premium beef and seafood, even though they are relatively expensive, as low-priced products stand little chance of out-competing convenience store rivals. These select ekiben have become hot sellers.
To provide consumers who have become tired of classic ekiben the chance to experience something new, there has been an increase in limited-edition ekiben that only hit the shelves during certain seasons or at specific events.
Sendai Station shops -- known for ekiben featuring slices of ox tongue -- have been looking to attract shoppers by offering thicker cuts of meat.
Meanwhile, Keio Department Store holds regular "ekiben fairs" at its flagship Shinjuku outlet that offer about 300 varieties at a time.
Takahiko Kono, a supervising manager at Keio's food and restaurant department, travels across the nation to select ekiben products for the event. He is often allowed to observe their production process, giving him insight into the passion that goes into making them.
"We want to use fried eggs as a partition to separate dishes," one ekiben maker told him on his travels, while another said, "We make sure to include only locally produced pickles." Their passion has inspired Kono to help promote their products.
"Especially in an era when we can get anything we want with the touch of a smartphone, I hope people who are traveling or returning to their family homes choose [ekiben] that are only available in that place or at that time," Kono said.
Ekiben expert Mochizuki says the best time to buy ekiben is around 10 a.m., when a wider range are available at food stands.
Makers of some classic ekiben products have been working to improve not just side dishes, but also the rice.
Kiyoken Co.'s Shumai Bento, sold mainly at Yokohama Station, debuted in 1954 as an ekiben featuring shumai dumplings. The bento includes rice in the shape of rolls, which remain sticky even after they cool. The bento box is made from paper-thin strips of wood that absorb excess moisture, helping the rice remain fresh even when it is packed just after being cooked.
Another classic ekiben, Masu no Sushi, is sold mainly at Toyama Station. It consists of bamboo leaves laid on the bottom of a rounded wooden container, on top of which vinegared rice and slices of fatty trout are placed before being pressed. This bento has a history of more than 100 years.
Minamoto Co. released a new Masu no Sushi variety last autumn featuring Fufufu, a local rice brand that had just debuted. "It stays tasty even after it cools," a spokesperson said.
Paris catches on to trend
Ekiben is also growing in stature in France, an epicenter of haute cuisine.
KOEDO dozo became the country's first ekiben shop upon opening at Issy val de Seine Station in a suburb of Paris in 2015.
The store sells a wide array of bento, from types featuring karaage fried chicken to makunouchi bento, which comes with rice and a selection of various dishes in small quantities.
"We pack the rice after we receive an order so it doesn't become dry," store operator Esther Miquel explained in fluent Japanese.
Miquel was impressed by Japan's bento while studying in the country, particularly their beautiful presentation. She opened her store in the hopes of promoting Japanese culture through bento.
Most of Miquel's cowokers are Japanese living in France, and her products are loyal to the authentic flavors of Japanese bento.
East Japan Railway Co. (JR East) and other entities, meanwhile, opened a pop-up shop named "Ekiben Japon" in autumn 2018 at Lyon Station, a major rail terminal in Paris. The store operated for a month and sold famous ekiben varieties from all over Japan.
The shop sold seven types of products, including one with French ingredients, and a total of 200 to 300 items per day. The event received a positive response from the public, with some visitors saying the ekiben reminded them of their travels in Japan.
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