The beer: Table by Central State Brewing (Indianapolis).
What it is: Central State calls Table a "rustic blonde ale," though in beer speak it is a "table beer" _ a bright, earthy, low-alcohol ale popular in the Belgian and French traditions meant to appeal to a broad swath of drinkers and pair well with a meal. It's a wonderful, though sadly unappreciated style in the U.S. _ done well, table beer is among the most interesting iterations possible of "light beer."
In the can: It's clear you're in for interesting refreshment as soon as the aroma hits; Table smells of tart citrus _ lemon and orange _ and grassy hay. It's bright, tart and zesty up front on the palate, rife with notes of lemon and yeast underscored with light melon and floral character. A late peppery bitterness creeps in as Table dries out into easy drinkability that's bright and effervescent and even a bit reminiscent of dry Champagne.
Alcohol: 4 percent
Find it: Available year-round in four-packs of 16-ounce cans.
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