A face palette – one that makes up eyes and cheeks, no shade unloved or overlooked – is an extremely tall order. It should be convenient, portable, space-saving and well curated. I must be able to grab it for a weekend away or in a morning rush, and know that I need only add lipstick, mascara, some tinted moisturiser and concealer to be covered for any eventuality. A capsule makeup wardrobe, if you will, and as rare as black orchids.
Which is why Charlotte Tilbury’s new Instant Look In A Palette (£49, and out this month) is so endlessly gratifying. Here we have three eyeshadows (Tilbury’s are among the best in terms of blendability and strength of pigment): a warm, brightening matte ivory, a shimmery champagne wash, and a flat, chic taupe for a smoky crease line (my signature shadow look). There’s also Hollywood Bronze & Glow bronzer and highlighter (normally £49 on its own, albeit in larger portions) and two very pretty, wearable pink blushers. The sleek compact is rammed to the edges with product, rather than the useless sponge applicators of its rivals. Truly, this is all killer, no filler. Not much of a comfort if your skin is nearer black than it is white, or light-to-mid brown, but my instinct is that a version for dark skins won’t be that far behind. Until then, a good placeholder would be Sleek Eye & Cheek Palette In Dancing Til Dusk (£10). It offers fantastic value and looks gorgeous on brown skins (if you’re pale, All Day Soiree works better).
The ultimate solution for control freaks, however, is to curate your own face palette. Bobbi Brown’s eyeshadows and blushers (£17.50 and £19.50, respectively) snap in and out of smart palettes (£7; available in three-, four- and six-pan formations) for almost infinite bespoke combinations. Nars will fill empty palettes, too (from £12), but their size confines them to either professional or home use – there’s no popping one in your handbag for a quick commuter makeover.
My favourites of the genre, though, are Surrat’s Custom Palettes (from £13.50) by Troy Surrat, former apprentice to the legendary Kevyn Aucoin. Rarely have I been so excited about a new brand, and these dense, silky, click-in cheek and eye colours are typical of the exceptional quality across the line. Do take a look. I predict huge things.
