According to the latest census, more than 150,000 Irish people live in London – a higher number than reside in any city in Ireland apart from Dublin and Cork.
For those of us without the good fortune and wisdom to be Irish, the diaspora in the UK capital has ensured many dimensions of Irishness to enjoy without going beyond the M25.
Ahead of St Patrick’s Day, these are a few of my favourite Irish places.
Guinness Open Gate Brewery
Once upon a time you could wander along to the St James's Gate Brewery in Dublin and join a free tour of the home of the black stuff – with plenty of the product of offer as a restorative. Today the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin is one of Ireland's most profitable tourist attractions. In a bid to emulate its success, holding company Diageo has carved out a Guinness experience from some warehouses in Covent Garden. You can join a tour of the microbrewery (starting at £30), or just eat, drink and shop for stout merch. The location is also close to probably the strongest contender as London's leading Irish church: St Patrick's in Soho Square.
1 Mercer Walk, London, WC2H 9FA
Irish Cultural Centre, Hammersmith
Edna O’Brien, Van Morrison and the King are among the notables who have called into this modern building just around the corner from Hammersmith underground station; the monarch was reportedly greeted by a regular with the words “Hello, Charlie boy”. A fixed point in a busy calendar of cultural events is live music every Friday evening from 5.30pm to 8pm – during which it is the location for one of the busiest bars in London.
5 Black's Road, Hammersmith, London, W6 9DT
McCarthy’s Irish Bar, Tooting
How Irish is this hideaway towards the back of Tooting Broadway market? Just look at the Sunday morning breakfast offering. The Full Irish Breakfast Roll contains Clonakilty black pudding, white pudding and sausages from west Cork, plus Batchelors Baked Beans (“Ireland’s favourite since 1935”) and much more, crammed into a crusty roll (£9.90). You will need something to wash it down: either Guinness or (my preference), Barry’s Tea. Tayto crisps also available.
29 Tooting High Street, London, SW17 0SP
Cadogan Arms, Chelsea
This upmarket hostelry is far from the average Irish pub. But it has one culinary claim to fame that sets it apart from all other drinking establishments in the capital: the best soda bread I have tasted this side of the Irish Sea, served with Guinness-infused butter (and a well-kept pint of stout). To round off the meal, you could always try the invisible trifle: priced at £5, this is a dessert that is 0 per cent fat and 100 per cent charity. “Buying a portion helps Hospitality Action to support hospitality workers and their families through ill health and hard times,” the pub says.
298 King’s Road, London, SW3 5UG
Maldron Hotel, Shoreditch
The Dalata Hotel Group is the biggest chain in Ireland and is building its presence in the UK – with a newly announced property in Kensington on the cards. For now, though, this bright and comfortable four-star just up the road from The Independent boasts plenty of art in the 157 rooms and public areas. How popular is it on the night of St Patrick's Day? The cheapest room is over £400.
49-51 Paul St, London, EC2A 4LJ
London Irish Centre, Camden
“The Irish Heart of London” has been around since 1955 and occupies a handsome, sprawling building in Camden Square. The London Irish Centre has many dimensions: raising funds and caring for the diaspora in the capital, hosting cultural events (including a memorable charity gig by Ed Sheeran) and teaching the Irish language, folk singing and dance.
50-52 Camden Square, London, NW1 9XB
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