Let’s get one thing straight right off the top: Montreal is not “Paris in North America.” The French they speak here is not the same in tone nor tempo as in the Ile-de-France. Montreal’s French food is indeed spectacular, but then so is the city’s proud Canadian culture from its sports scene to its craft beer renaissance. In springtime, the city is shedding its winter layers, both physical and emotional – a process with a significance to Montrealers that is hard to over-emphasise. If ever there was a city with its guard down, it is my city on a sunny day in spring.
Gathering provisions in Little Italy
Little Italy is home to the Jean-Talon market, one of Montreal’s great covered markets selling produce and seasonal products brought in from farms outside the city. It’s the best place to buy supplies if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, but it’s also wonderful for a casual wander. Before hitting the market I always stop for coffee, either at Caffe Italia, a neighbourhood institution that makes an unassailable Italian-style latte, or Café Odessa, a tiny third-wave coffee shop with minimally elegant décor and top-shelf beans from Canadian roasters such as Anchor Roasting in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, and Pilot Roasters in Toronto.
End the day with a pint and a snack at Vices & Versa, a pub with an impressive and ever-changing list of Quebec microbrews on tap, and friendly service. On Sunday evenings you can catch some of Montreal’s best roots and country musicians playing casual sets for an audience of friends.
Old Montreal: where the locals staycation
When I want to treat myself to something luxe I head to Old Montreal, the district by the river where cobblestone streets are lined with the elaborate facades of 19th-century stone buildings. New to the scene is Restaurant Harlow, a gem of an art deco French bistro. Old Montreal is also home to some of the city’s best upscale shopping. Ssense is the go-to boutique for Montreal’s chic boho crowd. Wear your new outfit to the Phi Centre, a music and art space showcasing a non-stop roster of emerging Canadian talent. Oh, and no self-respecting Montrealer would visit Old Montreal without a stop at Olive et Gourmando, a café that makes the best brownies in town.
March to the beat of a local drummer
One of the reasons I still live in Montreal is that artists and writers can survive here comfortably. If you’re looking for an entryway into Montreal’s rich and varied music scene, check the listings at the great new showbar Le Ritz PDB, partly owned by members of the legendary avant-garde band Godspeed You! Black Emperor.
La Sala Rossa hosts a consistently stellar lineup of bands – and there’s a great tapas bar at the Spanish Social Club downstairs. If it’s dancing you’re after, Sala hosts a longstanding Saturday night soul and hip-hop dance party, The Goods, which is to me Platonic ideal of a dance party. Finally, Le Divan Orange is a cosy venue that is as suited to a quiet drink as it is to a raging rock show.
Lachine canal living
Montreal’s south-west borough is home to some of the city’s best dining and my favourite bike path, which runs along the Lachine Canal. This is a great cycling city, despite being a bit on the chilly side five months out of 12, and the Bixi bike-sharing system means visitors can get started with no hassle. My ideal ride starts at the Atwater market, another covered market. This one is right on the canal, and in it you will find a dazzling spread of treats.
Cross the small bridge into the Pointe St Charles neighborhood for some leisurely bike exploration, then cross back over the bridge for a glass of wine and a snack at Le Vin Papillon. Le Vin Papillon is a product of the team behind Joe Beef, one of Canada’s best restaurants, which is just down the street. By all means, make a reservation and eat at Joe Beef.
I’ve only been once, and although it is a big-ticket event, it is absolutely worth it. Le Vin Papillon is just as brilliant in its own quiet way, but it has a no-reservations policy and fills up fast. My favourite time at Le Vin is around 6, when it’s still empty and you can have a leisurely chat with the charming and intelligent staff about what interesting wine to try. Afterward, walk down Notre-Dame Street to Satay Brothers, a much-beloved little restaurant serving Singaporean street food. Have a night-capping bike ride home, and sleep with the window open to the spring air.
To find out more about Canada and book your visit, go to keepexploring.com.au
Kathryn is a writer and editor based in Montreal. She can be founding tweeting at twitter.com/kjezermorton
