With the Women’s Euros kicking off in Switzerland this week, Zurich is about to be the destination on everybody’s lips.
And for good reason. Though Zurich is primarily famous for being Switzerland’s banking capital, there’s a lot more to it than that. This underappreciated city in the Swiss-German speaking heartlands boasts excellent food, gorgeous scenery and serves as the perfect jumping-off point to explore the Alps that ring the Zürichsee.
For those looking to follow the Lionesses all the way to victory, veering off the football track will reward you with a booming cultural scene, stunning architecture and (of course) some world-class chocolate.
Here’s how to make the most of a weekend there.
What to do
The winding streets that dot Zurich’s city centre have helped bolster its reputation as one of the most beautiful places in Switzerland; think red-tiled rooves, steep, cobbled alleyways and tiny cafés that have helped make the city a standout spot for coffee culture.
Spending half a day or so wandering around is always rewarding, as is popping into its medieval churches. The Grossmünster (a towering, two-towered edifice where radical preacher Zwingli kick-started the Swiss Reformation) and graceful Fraumünster are always worth a visit: the Fraumunster is also home to the famous Chagall windows. Designed by Marc Chagall in 1970, they’re a masterpiece of painted glass, accentuated further by the plain interior.
Art-lovers will also find plenty here: there are smaller galleries dotted around the city, but the must-visit is the Kunsthaus. This is the largest art museum in Switzerland, and it boasts an appropriately hefty list of artworks and installations, including works from Edvard Munch, Claude Monet, Van Gogh and the world’s largest collection of items from the Dada movement, which was founded in Zurich in 1916 (tickets cost around £28, tickets.kunsthaus.ch).
After wandering around there, make time to enjoy some music. Zurich is a musical city: many of its churches, including St. Peter’s and the Fraumuster, host concerts, and it’s also home to Schauspielhaus Zurich, one of the best German speaking theatres around. Factor in its famous orchestra and opera companies, and what you have is an excuse to indulge in some top-flight culture: to find out what’s on, check out the listings in ZüriTipp.
Once you’ve explored the centre to your heart’s content, then head out towards the Zürichsee: the lovely, wide lake that abuts the edge of the city. Filled with the glacier meltwater that comes streaming down from the mountains, it’s a pure, crystalline blue that looks almost otherworldly on sunny days.
Regardless of the weather, hop on a boat. Ferries are frequent, and many will take you to Rapperswil-Jona, the so-called ‘town of roses’ (which can also be reached by train; consider investing in a Zurich Card to get around, which includes free admissions to museums as well as public transport). Like Zurich, Rapperswil-Jona boasts some incredible architecture: old, Germanic buildings, winding alleyways and the magnificent Rapperswil castle.
As for the true adventurers? Make like a local and head to the Uetliberg: a mountain that rises above Zurich. There are walking trails galore here, but there is also a train that will take you to the top. For those who make it to the summit’s 30m viewing tower, the views are unparalleled: not only Zurich, but the mountains beyond. On a clear day, it’s possible to see as far as Austria.
Where to eat
Despite what you might think, Zurich actually boasts a lively culinary scene. Traditional food here is quite heavy on the meat (the traditional dish, Züri Gschnätzlets, is fried veal in mushroom sauce, served with rosti), but there are plenty of other options, too.
For those hunting for an authentic Swiss gourmand experience, Alpenrose (restaurantalpenrose.ch) and Zum Kropf (zumkropf.ch) are the places to be. Both specialise in local dishes, with various twists: while Alpenrose focusses on serving locally-sourced dishes from around the country, Zum Kropf offers more of a traditional (read: meat and cheese heavy) fare in a building that dates back to 1888.
But it’s not all about dinners. The café culture around Limmatquai and the nearby cobbled squares of Hechtplatz and Schiffländeplatz are well worth dipping a toe into. Check out Café 1842 to sample its famous hot chocolate, or the Odeon, a grandiose, compact place where Lenin once sat (and presumably plotted revolutionary thoughts).
For people with a sweet tooth, swing by the Confiserie Sprüngli for some truly great pastries. This is where coffee meets chocolate: the counters here groan with finely-crafted chocolates and cakes, and the smell is heavenly. Settle down with an espresso and a house speciality, Luxemburgerli: pastries stuffed with cream.
Where to drink
Banish thoughts of staid Swiss: the area around Backeranlage park is full of funky bars and clubs. Such as Frau Gerold’s Garten, a hip hangout that’s definitely one for summer. It’s open air, with an urban garden and relaxed vibes (fraugerold.ch).
If you’re in the mood for something central, pop into Jules Verne in the city centre to drink cocktails in a domed observatory that also offers panoramic views of the cityscape. It’s not traditional, but it’s definitely classy (jules-verne.ch).
And once you’ve had your fill of those, head to Rote Fabrik. Located in a former silk mill, it’s now home to a Berghain-esque superclub which features graffitied walls, a lakeshore location and a rotating line-up of famous DJs. During the daytime, it hosts film screenings and workshops, how wholesome (rotefabrik.ch).
Where to stay
First of all: try and find a hotel in the city’s Aldstadt, or Old Town. The Niederdorf district offers old-timey charm and quieter streets, and is home to the Alma Hotel: a chic designer, boutique which actually offers some rather good-value rooms, plus a gorgeous rooftop terrace where you can soak in the views of the city.
Factor in a wood burner and an excellent spa (which offers women-only massages), as well as organic breakfasts, and what you have is a recipe for a very relaxing stay indeed (rooms from £185; almahotel.ch).
Right in the city’s heart lies the Hotel Kindli, which is the ultimate pick for an authentic Swiss experience. The building itself has been a hotel since the 1770s, and lies just below the Lindenhof. Expect wood panelled walls, dim lighting and gorgeous plates of pan-European food at the in-house restaurant. Ambiance in spades (rooms from £420; kindli.ch)
For those who want to live like the Lionesses, though, the Dolder Grand is the place to be – in fact, it’s serving as the base for the England team during their time in the Euros. Situated just 10 minutes from the city centre, the hotel is easy to spot: it looks like a Disney castle. Inside, it’s just as luxe: it’s been home to rockstars (including the Rolling Stones) and royals during the years. Plus, it has one of the largest spas in Switzerland.
Chill there in the afternoon, then head to the in-house, two Michelin star restaurant, The Restaurant, for dinner (rooms from £696 a night; dolderhotelag.com).
